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Positive buzz at first day of Scoop London

On Sunday (September 20), its first day, exhibitors and buyers praised Scoop London, the new premium womenswear event devised to dovetail with London Fashion Week.

Running seven weeks after the established Scoop International show, which coincided with Pure this season, the new three-day event has 150 collections on show at the Saatchi Gallery near Sloane Square. Organiser Karen Radley has brought together unfamiliar names from as far away as Japan and Korea, as well as a large European, especially Italian contingent, and creative collections from the UK.

“Only about 5% of our exhibitors were at Scoop International; mainly we have new faces here,” she told Drapers. “Those that were here in August were showing pre-collections, here they have the main spring 16 collections.”

Radley’s strategy of attracting international buyers who are in the capital for London Fashion Week appeared to be working. Buyers from the Biffi and Banner boutiques in Milan, Colette and Spree in Paris, and Globus in Switzerland were among those seen yesterday. UK buyers included those from Net-A-Porter, Chattertons in Old Amersham, Barnes and Southwold, and Feathers in Knightsbridge.

Suzanne Burstein, owner of Feathers, batted away criticism that the event was too late for buyers. “Not at all – I am more ready now to do my buying than in August. I am here on a Sunday as it is the easiest day of the week for me to be out of the shop. This is an excellent selection of collections; every retailer should be looking forward and be always ready to try something new.”

A number of British labels were at Scoop hoping to meet UK buyers who do not visit international trade fairs. “We show in New York and Paris for export buyers, but we are here to get in touch with UK independents who don’t do those trips,” said Sabina Goth of the Rainbow Wave agency, which was showing UK designer Bella Freud’s range alongside Mosscab (from Spain), Ancient Greek Sandals (Greece) and Lemlem (Ethiopia). “The show has been quite well edited and the location is really food for buyers. Not all of them want to come to our showroom in Camden.”

London-based agency Palladio was showing 10 collections, nine of which it had had at the earlier edition of Scoop, but director Ian Campbell-Smith said the ranges had been edited down to concentrate on only the most fashion-forward lines.

Michael Whitby-Grubb, consultant for motorcycling-inspired heritage brand Matchless, was showing to attract premium UK and Irish womenswear independents to complement his strong showing with menswear retailers. “The vibe here is quite good and I hope it will be a good shop window for us to see people we wouldn’t normally see at the menswear shows,” he said.

Scoop has done a deal with LFW so that buyers registered at either event have instant access to both. Exhibitors praised the free taxi service between the Saatchi Gallery and the LFW venue in Soho. Scoop London runs until Tuesday, September 22.

  • At the LFW’s new home at the Brewer Street car park, exhibitors complained that buyer traffic over the first three days (Friday to Sunday) had been slow.

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