The second day of premium womenswear show Scoop got off to a quieter start, although exhibitors continued to praise the show’s new location at Old Billingsgate.
International buyers were thin on the ground on day two of the show, which has moved from its usual home at the Saatchi Gallery to Old Billingsgate exclusively for this season. Exhibitors said they were mainly seeing buyers from independent stores outside of the capital, but added they were pleased with the overall quality of buyers at the show.
Jeni Elif, who owns showroom Winnie & Eds, dismissed concerns that holding Scoop on the same day as rival womenswear show Pure had lowered footfall.
“The quality of buyers walking round is really high and people are here to do business. I actually think it’s positive to have Scoop and Pure on the same day. Imagine how irritating and expensive it must be for buyers from the north to have to come down for two separate shows. Having them at the same time makes it much easier.”
As on day one of Scoop, the majority of exhibitors said they were pleased about the show’s move to Billingsgate, despite initial reservations, describing the new venue as well-presented and easy to navigate. However, a few brands said they disliked the dark floors and stall backdrops, arguing it was more difficult for buyers to see the collections.
Stephanie Mendes, sales manager, Duffy
“It was much busier yesterday. It might be the fact that Pure is on at the same time and buyers are going there first before coming to Scoop. I like the new location, though, and everyone here seems in a good mood. I’ve seen a mix of existing and new customers, mainly from the regional independents. People are coming to write orders.”
Renata Quintella, sales manager, Osklen
“The show has been good, although it’s a little bit quieter today. It might be because it’s a Monday in July and it’s holiday season, so a lot of people have gone away. It’s definitely more independents than multiples and I’d say there’s a mix of people here just to browse and people here writing orders.”
Jesper Ravn, international sales manager, Modström
“The show has been okay, but not especially busy. Having said that, we always see good buyers and make good contacts at Scoop. We saw the independents yesterday and more of the multiples today. People here know exactly what they want and I know I’m going to see the more serious buyers at Scoop. It’s my first time here with this brand, although I’ve been here many times before with previous ones.”
Christina Poulsen, founder, Berthram’s
”I think it’s busier than it was yesterday. I’m seeing a lot of buyers from the independents who aren’t in London, which is the reason I come to Scoop. UK buyers aren’t as independent as they are in other European markets. They only buy a brand if their peers are also buying it or if it’s had a lot of press. They need validation from an outside source before they commit. In markets like Denmark, it’s more about finding something new that absolutely no one else has.”
Phil Wildbore, founder, Monkee Genes
”I think that the new UK needs a new show. We just haven’t got something with the same energy as Berlin’s Seek. I don’t like the design of the new venue at Scoop, I don’t like the dark floors or the dark hessian walls behind us. The Saatchi Gallery is much brighter and lighter. When we were at Seek, we were seeing buyers from all across Europe and we haven’t seen that here. Someone needs to create a new show here – London is still seen as very safe compared with some of the other European cities which have suffered terror attacks and there are so many great venues.”