Exhibitors and buyers praised this weekend’s Scoop London, the new premium womenswear event devised to dovetail with London Fashion Week.
The new three-day event has 150 collections on show at the Saatchi Gallery near Sloane Square.
Organiser Karen Radley told Drapers: “I’m thrilled. We have seen a lot on our target international buyers on the first day, like Biffi and banner in Milan, Colette and Spree from Paris, and Globus in Switzerland. Half the Net-a-Porter team came on Sunday, and the rest are due in on Monday.
“Only 5% of our exhibitors showed with us at Scoop in August and then they had pre-collections. Here they have the main ones. Some 95% of what’s here are new faces.”
Drapers spoke to some of the exhibitors and buyers on the first day of Scoop London.
Mirabel Edgedale, agent for Three Floor London and Missoni
“We showed at Scoop in August but this is better for us as it is a little bit more fashion and not so mainstream. We have appointments with Cricket from Liverpool, La Rinascente department stores for Italy and Etoile from Dubai. Sloane Square is a very good meeting point for international buyers and it is clever to have the taxis running between LFW and Scoop.”
Carla Ferrara, from Spazioif, accessory manufacturer based in Sicily
“We showed at Pure a couple of years ago, but it was not at the right level for us. We are here to find UK stockists for our bags and scarves. We are hoping to meet interesting boutiques, small design-led shops and galleries.”
Studio Thirteen, showing Paris-based knitwear specialist Romy & Ray
“We think this edition will be more international than the August Scoop. There seem to be quite a few Japanese and Italian buyers here, as well as UK boutiques like Chattertons. This collection is fitting in with the others here that are a bit different and unusual. At the other edition the ranges are more commercial. On the dateline, European collections are later and having this alongside LFW will hopefully get some fashion bloggers down to Scoop,” said Jordana Scott (pictured, right).
Marie-Susanne Kann, also from Studio Thirteen, wears a knitted jumpsuit that wholesales at about £100.
Sabina Goth, of Rainbow Wave agency, showing Bella Freud, Ancient Greek Sandals, Lemlem, Mosscab
“We show in New York and Paris but we have come here to get in touch with UK independents. It seems to have been quite well edited, and the location is really good and very handy for buyers. Not all of them want to come to our showroom in Camden.”
Milena & Janet: Seamstresses
A soft launch for this new label from two Bulgarian-born sisters who run a factory in Stratford, east London that makes for LFW designers.
“We are not expecting many orders as the show is so late, but we hoping we will pick up an agency to represent the collection,” said Stephen Laundy, who is acting as a consultant.
Wholesale prices run from around £150 for a skirt to £180 for a top to £315 for a dress made of PVC with laser cut-outs.
Bell & Fox
Brighton-based accessories designer Sarah Edwards launched her Bell & Fox label for autumn 15. “I showed at Pure in August but it was a quietish fair. I have come to Scoop London to attract more premium buyers. There are some lovely businesses here and the whole show has a sense of luxury.”
Prices for the made-in-China leather line range from £13.50 for a purse to £105.50 for the largest shoulder bag.
London-based accessories label The Jacksons was last at Scoop two years ago. “We are regulars at Premiere Classe (to see international buyers), but we have come here to find UK buyers who don’t travel to Paris. I really like the environment and brand mix here at Scoop London,” said sales manager Kate Cronk.
Nadia Minkoff London
Jewellery and accessories designer Nadia Minkoff has shown six times at Scoop International, but said: “While I do quite well with UK buyers, August is such a bad month to hold a show as the whole of Europe is on holiday.”
Of the new Scoop London, she said: “LFW is such a big thing, the tie-up is good. This is one of the best shows in Europe because there is nothing here that’s not good. The Saatchi Gallery is nice to walk round and easy for a buyers to work.”
The London-based agency had 10 collections on show
“We have been doing the original Scoop show for five or six years and it’s always busy. This edition seems to have more emerging brands and the collections look exciting, contemporary and slightly younger,” said Chessie Schwitzer (pictured, right, with her colleague Chelsea Rowland). “It’s a good place to get new business, especially with international buyers, some of which we can refer to our Paris showroom.”
Well established in her native Ireland, the Irish fashion designer of the year for 2013 is looking to raise her profile in the UK: “The event is very well organised and it’s a great mix of brands here, all of which seem to have the same ethos. The gallery space itself allows buyers to get a very clean and clear view of the collections.”
The London-based agency brought 10 collections to the new Scoop, including nine that it had shown at the August edition.
“We have edited the collections down and brought the more fashion-forward elements,” said director Ian Campbell-Smith, pictured on the right, with his co-director. “We are expecting to see a different level of buyers here and more international buyers. The event looks different and the assortment is completely different. It would be great if we get this to work because major fashion weeks tend not to have a trade event running alongside them.”
For Michael Whitby Grubb at heritage brand Matchless London, attendance was a marketing exercise. “Our womenswear business is much small than our menswear, but the women’s shops that get it do very well with Matchless. I am looking for more UK and Irish stockists. The vibe here is quite good and I am hoping to see people I wouldn’t normally meet at the menswear events.”
Founder-designer Kristi Edwards was using the show as the launchpad for her luxury loungewear label Hesper Fox, which comprises eight styles.
Wholesale prices for the made-in-Portugal silk collection run from about £48 for a camisole top to around £160 for a robe.
“UKFT advised me that this could be a good show for me to meet international and UK buyers,” the former lawyer said.
And what the buyers said …
From the Globus premium stores in Switzerland, designer-stylist Claudia Berner and senior accessories buyer Brigitte Wagner were in the UK for five days for showroom appointments, store visits (including to Harvey Nichols in Birmingham) and looking for “special brands and new brands”. They liked the small size of Scoop and its and quality selection of exhibitors.
Suzanne Burstein, owner of premium boutique Feathers in Knightsbridge, London, batted away criticism that the event was too late for buyers. “Not at all – I am more ready now to do my buying than in August. I am here on a Sunday as it is the easiest day of the week for me to be out of the shop. This is an excellent selection of collections; every retailer should be looking forward and be always ready to try something new.”
The Paris boutique visits London each season.
“The collections here are very good and we are very impressed by the venue. We especially like that the art has been left on the walls,” said director Bruno Hadjadj, seen here with Roberta Oprandi.