A positive attitude from premium buyers was widely reported by exhibitors on Monday, the middle day of Scoop at the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea.
Most reported a reduction in numbers after a relatively lively Sunday, but some contradicted this, telling Drapers that they had seen retailers today who had failed to arrive yesterday due to the road closures that cycling event Ride London afflicted on central London across the weekend.
“Sunday was good even though there was not loads of traffic,” reported David Hobbs, who was showing the German premium underwear brand Schiesser on the top floor of the venue for the second season. “My own marketing is working; I am seeing some of the buyers I am targeting but today (Monday) seems quieter. But this is the right show for me. It is well-edited with lovely brands and all the top womenswear independents from the UK and Ireland will be here.”
Linda Marshall of the Parkers agency, who was showing the Belgian premium lifestyle brand Scapa for the first time, felt that buyers are in a relatively good mood, but are not eager to experiment. “The spring-summer season has gone well overall and experienced retailers are resigned to the fact that business is never going to be how it used to be. But they are not being innovative. They are sticking to the brands that they know will perform for them. Spring 16 will be a quiet season, a holding season.”
Hoping that is not the case is Stephen Toff, who is launching a new collection, Elise & Clemence, at Scoop. Having spent 24 years with independents’ favourite Nougat, which went bust last November, he has put together a range of contemporary and feminine dresses, tops and knitwear. “Scoop is a good environment for us and we have seen more buyers today than on Sunday,” he said.
Much of the discussion across the aisles was about the benefits or problems of Scoop coinciding with Pure at Olympia. This season the two events run on the same Sunday-Tuesday schedule. Geraldine Bennett of German brand Set and agent Julian Sterck, who was showing Caractère, agreed that separate dates were preferable.
“I prefer Scoop to run earlier so that you can see buyers before they have spent most of their budget,” said Sterck.
Ian Campbell-Smith and Shaun Selling of the Palladio agency, which has stands at both events, also want different dates. “It is obviously inconvenient for us as agents, but having the two at the same time puts buyers under too much pressure, as they also have to fit in showroom appointments too,” Selling told Drapers.
Stacey Wood, head of womenswear at Zone Two agency, which was showing the Danish brand Samsøe & Samsøe for the second time, said “Even though buyers are down in London for a few days, it is difficult for them to fit everything in.”