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Subdued mood at Paris showcase

The mood was mixed at contemporary womenswear trade shows Who’s Next and Prêt à Porter in Paris last week, with the quiet aisles a stark contrast to the buoyant attitude of brands and buyers at Pure London.

However, organisers of Who’s Next said attendance was 5% up on the same show last year. Prêt attendance was not available as Drapers went to press.

Archana Banchongrati, designer for UK contemporary womenswear brand Pam & Arch, said: “This is the seventh time we have shown here at Who’s Next and while we have had lots of our regulars come and see us, it definitely feels quieter.

“People are placing fewer orders and using it more as a viewing platform, so while it is good for networking, it is harder to get people to commit to spending.”

Although a number of new trends came through, such as embellished shoulders, printed jumpsuits and textured spring outerwear, the buyers who made the cross-Channel trip were not greatly inspired by the product on show.

Laura Mayer, owner of north London indie Jessimara, said: “We got around the whole of Prêt à Porter and Who’s Next in a day and a half where traditionally we would have spent two or three days. I didn’t find a lot of newness.”

The dates for next season’s shows are January 24 to 26.

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