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Tomorrow's world

As the autumn 08 textiles show season kicks off, key experts predict the dominant trends, ranging from technical blends to natural neutrals and brights

Linda Laderman, organiser, Textile Forum

What will be the theme of the season? The first theme is a glamorous, sophisticated look, alongside clean, bold, and graphic ranges inspired by modern architecture. A third theme will have a more utilitarian feel.

 

What will be the most commercia-fabrics?

Fluid fabrics that enable designers to cut on the bias are key, so sleek jerseys that allow for drape will be popular, plus heavy silk and fine wool crepes, couture-inspired duchess satins, sport-inspired stretch satins and chiffons.

 

Which colours will emerge?

The season will mainly offer neutral, natural shades, including ice blues and frozen shades of green, warmed by golden, honey-blonde hues, classic taupe and dusky tones of mink and rose petal pink.

 

What finishes and patterns are important?

Performance finishes and embellishments will be particularly strong, as well as naturally-inspired prints, neutral-on-neutral fabrics, and understated colours in bold floral patterns.

 

Which textile innovations will be key this season?

For autumn we will see boucles with silk and wool blends, the introduction of silk and bamboo - anything that hints at being environmentally friendly. Lurex and stretch fabrics will also feature.

 

How will the key textile trends be interpreted by designers?

There is a desire among designers to create beautiful, well-tailored and well-cut clothes. This means many designers will be looking for the finest fabrics and trading up.

 

Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director, Premiere Vision

What will be the theme of the season?

I think we’ll see textiles with mixed fibres, including wool and cotton combined with synthetics. Other mixes will see linen and paper introduced as mills get more ambitious with technical blends. There will also be a more tactile, rustic feel, with fabrics such as coated, pressed boucle.

 

What will be the most commercia-fabrics?

Fabrics with contrast will be key, plus textiles with weight and fluidity, and double faces for internal and external differences, as well as technical and natural blends.

 

Which colours will emerge?

There will be lots of full, positive colours with yellow, red and orange making a big impact. Entire outfits will come in one colour or in tonal plays, but the brightest shades will only be used as accent colours. Sombre, contrasting shades will be in grey and black.

 

What finishes and patterns are important?

A blurry look will be commercial, but there will also be more graphics as part of a modern feel.

 

Which textile innovations will be key this season?

There is a lot of influence from sportswear, but only in terms of the aesthetic. Environmental concerns are registering in people’s minds and are becoming reality for fashion companies.

 

How will the key textile trends be interpreted by designers?

On outerwear, the creation of thick but supple textile blends have opened up new silhouettes to designers, who can now create bulky garments with fluid lines.

 

Angelo Uslenghi, trends committee co-ordinator, Moda In

What will be the theme of the season? If I had to say just one thing, the strongest story is the fusion of technical and natural fibres to create fabrics with both warmth and technical shine.

 

What will be the most commercia-fabrics?

Luxurious natural fabrics, such as cashmere and alpaca, will be most commercial, along with the return of camel hair and angora. But lustre will be added via technical blends and sateen finishes.

 

Which colours will emerge?

Autumn 08 will be dominated by neutrals. This means lots of light grey and sand shades, brown and oyster. They are worked into a shine, in a sophisticated move on from the metallics, which will disappear this season. Red is also a strong story, from burnt orange to burgundy, while black asphalt shades will appear.

 

What finishes and patterns are important?

Both sides of a textile will be worked, so blends will have a warm, fluffy side and a technical, shiny side. Transparent looks will be key, especially on anoraks and blousons with see-through nylons. Organza and chiffon feed in to this trend too.

 

Which textile innovations will be key this season?

Outerwear will be more fluid and draped - when more traditional fabrics are revived and used for warmth, they will also be fluid and look light. We will also see lots of faux fur on outerwear in felted and boiled wools.

 

How will the key textile trends be interpreted by designers?

Knitwear will be interesting because the mills have made both super-light, almost jersey styles, as well as really coarse textiles for cardigans and hoodies.

 

Anne Tyrrell, managing director, design consultancy Anne Tyrrell

What will be the theme of the season?

Global climate change means there will definitely be a more non-seasonal approach to fabric for autumn 08. A lightweight, layered look is emerging and a luxury feel is coming through with silk, cashmere, alpaca and angora content, while a return to tailoring looks to the finest wools, worsteds and wool blends. Fluid jersey fabrics are important and it will be a strong season for knitwear, with knitted outerwear in light, lofty yarns. Expect the return of fur, fur trim, suede and leather. A mix of tweed, flannels and wools will feature the shine of silk, and satin, georgette, velvet, taffeta and tulle will bring eveningwear glamour to daywear.

 

What will be the most commercia-fabrics?

Textiles with a non-seasonal, lighter-weight approach will be commercial for autumn 08, as will a sportswear influence on fabrics, which in turn will lead to more functional textiles. The traditional fleece will become more sophisticated in deluxe fabrics, and knitwear will appear as outerwear. Fashion fabrics will be much more influenced by sportswear. Natural textures will create a grainy, rustic look with irregular surfaces, while man-made plastic and shine will provide a contrast.

 

Which colours will emerge?

The new neutrals are cold brown and taupe, as well as continuing shades of grey and granite. There is a dreamy mood incorporating soft, dusty tones and winter white. Greens come in lime, leaf and moss shades. There are also coral, raspberry and red shades, accents of yellow, sulphur and marmalade, intense blue, purple, fuchsia and pink, and dynamic darks.

 

What finishes and patterns are important?

In pattern, several themes will emerge. First are graphic, geometric, graffiti, digital, and art-inspired prints. Then there are bio-coloured, tonal floral prints and woven blanket checks, gingham, glen checks and stripes. Jacquard is important for womenswear and also on ties for menswear. Finishes will include washed, felted, brushed effects for a soft touch. Stones and sequins continue and there will be more muted metallics and metal effects. Finally, embellishment, embossing, embroidery and fabric manipulation will be important.

 

Which textile innovations will be key this season?

There has been a big surge of interest in organic, fair trade and recycling, so it is an extremely innovative development area for textiles. There is so much more availability and creativity in these developments and consumers are showing a growing interest in ethical issues.

 

Beryl Gibson, textile consultant, British Wool Textile Export Corporation

What will be the theme of the season?

A fantasy theme will continue for autumn 08. We will also see more tactile fabrics that aim to attract consumers with emotion, sensitivity and wit. If I had to name a specific theme for the season, it would be the enchanted and blurry atmosphere. This can be interpreted in a sensual way, blending different epochs and styles, including a more authentic and artistic Bloomsbury style.

 

What will be the most commercia-fabrics?

The big story will undoubtedly be the mix of natural organic fibres with some synthetics, and although winter cottons are important, I predict that there will be more wool on the high street for autumn, and not just at designer level. I also expect to see a selection of double-face fabrics, obvious weave effects and more colour wovens, as well as fluidity and drape with added cosiness and stretch.

 

Which colours will emerge?

Using colour in family groupings will be a major trend for the coming season. There is a new take on naturals, with browny olive, sage, mustard and light grey being used instead of the usual tans and browns. Deep asphalt grey shades are tinted with colour, and bluish reds - such as fuchsia, lavender and intense wine shades - are part of the spectrum, with rich quirky primaries for accents.

 

What finishes and patterns are important?

Finishes will show off much more character and obvious handles than we have seen in previous seasons. They will come in thickened and compact styles, twisted and distressed, neat and polished surfaces, crepes and shrink effects. Patterns will be more medium-sized, either geometric, out-of-focus or layered and melted away.

 

Which textile innovations will be key this season?

We have already seen some of the middle market beginning to trade up with better quality fabrics; the next step could be fabric country of origin as a label in garments, which can only lead to a positive local advantage.

 

THE SHOWS

September 11-14

IDEABIELLA

Fiera Milano City

00 39 02 66 10 11 05

www.ideabiella.com

September 11-14

IDEACOMO

Fiera Milano City

00 39 02 66 10 11 05

www.ideacomo.com

September 11-14

MODA IN

Fiera Milano City

00 39 02 66 10 11 05

www.fieramodain.it

September 11-14

PRATO EXPO

Fiera Milano City

00 39 02 66 10 11 05

www.pratoexpo.com

September 11-14

SHIRT AVENUE

Fiera Milano City

00 39 02 66 10 11 05

www.shirt-avenue.com

September 18-21

PREMIERE VISION

Parc des Expositions, Paris

020 7242 1655

www.premierevision.fr

September 18-21

EXPOFIL

Parc des Expositions, Paris

020 7242 1655

www.expofil.com

September 18-21

INDIGO

Parc des Expositions, Paris

020 7242 1655

www.indigo-salon.com

September 18-21

MOD’AMONT

Parc des Expositions, Paris

020 7242 1655

www.modamont.com

September 17-20

TEXWORLD

Paris Le Bourget

00 33 1 55 26 89 89

www.interstoff. messefrankfurt.com

October 2-3

TURKISH FASHION FABRIC EXHIBITION

Earls Court, London SW5

020 3008 5625

www.turkishfabric.com

October 10-11

TEXTILE FORUM

The Vinyl Factory, London W1

020 7436 6676

www.textileforum.co.uk.

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