Luxury menswear brand Turnbull & Asser will raise its profile this summer with an expanded collection from a new designer, a new London showroom and its first appearance on the London Collections: Men schedule on June 17.
Known primarily as a formal – if colourful – shirt and tie firm, for autumn 14 T&A will offer the first collection by its head of design Dean Gomilsek-Cole, whose CV includes stints at Gap, Timberland and Firetrap. He has added more weekend wear for the T&A customer, “putting the peacock among the pigeons of conformity”, according to the company.
T&A will relocate to a new head office at 14 South Street, Mayfair, which has been designed by acclaimed architects Shed. The three floors will house a luxurious showroom, the design team’s studio and offices.
The company, which was founded in 1885, has three shops in London, including a bespoke-only shop adjacent to its main unit in Jermyn Street. It runs a small tie factory in Sidcup, Kent, and owns its own shirt factory in Gloucester, which employs about 80 people.
“We have had too low a profile for too long,” said Nigel Blow, the ex-Harrods, Brown Thomas and Arnotts executive who has been T&A managing director for just over a year. “Our factory produces 15,000 bespoke shirts per year, so we are actually bigger than most people think. Our Made in England label is very important to our customers.”
UK stockists for its ready-to-wear shirts, which start at £155, include Mr Porter and Selfridges.
In the US, T&A has a flagship on 57th Street in Manhattan. A second store is scheduled to open in September 2015 in the luxury enclave being created on the site of the former World Trade Center. The brand is to be sold in Bloomingdale’s and Bergdorf Goodman.
The company is owned by Ali Fayed, whose family acquired it in their purchase of the House of Fraser group, which included Harrods, in the mid-1980s. Fayed, a younger brother of Harrods’ former boss Mohamed, bought the T&A business privately some years ago and has invested in its UK manufacturing facilities.