Bread & Butter’s shake-up of exhibitors will freshen up the “stale” trade show, buyers and brands have said.
The Berlin show revealed on Tuesday its plans to axe a number of long-term exhibitors for next season.
Bread & Butter’s autumn 13 edition, scheduled for January 15 to 17, is going back to its roots as a “trade show for selected brands”, with hall concepts being restructured and new design areas.
Although it is yet to communicate which brands are to be cut, the move has been broadly welcomed by attendees as the best way of revitalising the show, which last season saw a number of brands stay away.
Darren Comerford, co-owner of Scunthorpe young fashion indie Fallen Hero, said: “You get blinded by all the product and end up looking at things for the sake of it, so this will make it easier. I hope they still get the right balance of brands but just condense it all down.”
Martin Howard, director of young fashion brand Chunk, added: “It could be a very clever strategy; if you say no to somebody it makes them want it even more. They have to reinvent themselves - it’s an expensive show and we certainly want to get something back from that.”
One young fashion label told Drapers the cost of a stand had gone up by around a third in the past five years.
“B&B really needs to condense the brands. From each of the markets they need to look at which has the most international appeal,” he added.
Sunny Aytan, head of sales at men’s young fashion brand Criminal Damage, said the reinvention could even lead to increased footfall, with people keen to see the changes.
However, UK agent for young fashion footwear brand Fly London, Ashley Cumming, said the show would benefit further from relocating away from its Tempelhof Airport venue as it was in danger of becoming “stale”.
Andy Tompsett, head of UK for young fashion brand Merc, said he was keen to show again but warned B&B’s heyday could be over. “Nothing lasts forever in shows - they come and go in cycles.”
A buyer at one young fashion retailer said he would take a significantly reduced buying team to next season’s edition. “If they announced they’re not doing B&B
ever again I wouldn’t be too sad,” he said.