Stefano Pilati’s first collection for Yves Saint Laurent since the eponymous designer’s death in June would have done the old boy proud.
With an over-ridingly simple, spare aesthetic on baggy dresses and sheer shorts; a nod to tuxedo styling and the infamous Le Smoking, as well as a hint of oriental design in kimono wraps and fisherman pants, the collection offered both the directional and the commercial.
A classic palette of black, ivory, midnight blue and dove grey was worked across both day and eveningwear. Long slim skirt suits with fitted double breasted jackets came in either taffeta or crepe, and neat white shirts were cinched into hip hugging pencil skirts with exaggerated pointy hips, whilst peacock hems were used on both a maxi evening dress and a knee length style. The drama of such structured silhouettes was balanced by the relaxed chic of gravity-defying strapless sequinned sheath dresses, sheer organza blouses and loose shorts.
Paris fashion week closes on Sunday. For a full catwalk report see next week’s issue of Drapers.