Modern austerity was fused with just a hint of dark subversion over at Yves Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week last night, as creative director Stefano Pilati underlay a demure and innocent sentiment with a sexual sub-current.
The tailoring mastery for which YSL is so well known was still in evidence, as scalloped jackets, large-lapelled shirt dresses, bolero jackets and a raft of pinpoint perfect pencil skirts took to the Parisian stage, but it was the undercurrent of rebellion which most garnered guests’ attention.
At the naïve and decorous end, concertinaed fans of fabric decorated girlish playsuits, black ribbon bows laddered down white blouses and strawberry motifs were woven into peasant-like skirts and flouncy dresses, or dangled decoratively from models’ ears. Frill-fronted shirts and textured high-waisted cocoon skirts added a suggestion of the stern school maam, as stiff, voluminous fabrics conjured up wide-eyed princess visions.
Racing through to the other end of the spectrum, Pilati played with leather for spring 10 in the form of punched pencil skirts, waistcoats with accompanying cummerbunds and halterneck dresses. Leather shorts were slashed just above the knee, while the sheerest of blouses was teamed with cropped, tailored jackets and slim fitting skirts to add fuel to the seduction fire.