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Paris Fashion Week: Best of the rest

Best of the rest at Paris Fashion Week.

The birth of Sarah Burton’s twins days before the show meant Alexander McQueen presented a concise collection of 10 looks, but squeezed an entire collection’s work into intricately beautiful dresses inspired by nuns, popes and virgin queens.

Chloé had a schoolgirl influence, with great capes layered over harnessed pinafore dresses, while the tulle dresses could be the best prom outfits ever, complete with tuxedo jackets, of course.

Tailoring cropped up everywhere but no one did it like Comme des Garçons - pumped up, deconstructed, topped with bows and flowers in pinstripes and wacky patterns.

Things got luxe at Hermès, not that we expected anything less. Leather, fur and cashmere in clean minimal shapes offered a modern take on traditional French chic.

Riccardo Tisci did it again at Givenchy, creating edgy tough-girl separates with a sexy softness, topped with commercial winners.

Dries Van Noten balanced masculine tailoring with a soft femininity, littered with wispy feathers, while the trend for mega coats continued at Carven, where super-sized fuzzy wools came in candy pastels, alongside more stellar outerwear at Miu Miu, in a grown-up, longer-length silhouette.

There were oriental inspirations at Kenzo, all through the commercially cool eye of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, making lamé and brocade on robe coats and wrap skirts somehow covetable.

Acne moved from London to Paris but might not have made the impression it hoped for, with messy drapes, misjudged oversizing and inside-out construction producing one of the disappointments of the season.

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