At Carven, prints and patterns were precise, colours contrasted, tailoring was boxy and trousers were short in a collection that experimented with knits.
Talking of short trousers, Thom Browne explored subverted religious symbols with monochrome jacquards, dogtooth and checks.
Paul Smith employed dogtooth and checks in a collection that brightened up a generally subdued week with zingy aqua, tangerine and peach.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus opened in a similar, if more esoteric, manner before disappearing into a world of bathmat black.
Rick Owens never shies away from the darkest of tones, but it was his cream pieces, especially the clean outerwear, that really shone.
Great coats were on the march at 3.1 Phillip Lim, but minimalism was swapped for military as riffs on camo stood out.
Dries Van Noten’s patterns of choice were reminiscent of wallpaper prints as paisley pyjamas carried a ‘morning after the night before’ vibe.
Maison Martin Margiela opened with evening-appropriate looks - if db jumpsuits pass for eveningwear nowadays - but it was the patchwork furs and ponchos that really married the smart and the subversive.
- Images provided by Catwalking