Ada Kokosar’s luxury footwear brand, Midnight 00, uses PVC wrapping to create party-proof fairytale shoes.
Stylist and fashion consultant Ada Kokosar launched her women’s footwear brand, Midnight 00, for autumn 18 as a collaboration with Italian footwear brand Cesare Paciotti.
From spring 19, the brand is fully under the control of Kokosar and her business partner, Marco Calcinaro. Its quirky designs feature luxurious and elegant shoes wrapped up in a protective, decorative PVC layer, and quickly gathered a cult following thanks to their eclectic aesthetic.
The brand currently has 20 stockists worldwide, including Browns, Matchesfashion and The Modist, and styles wholesale between €250 (£220) for a mule to €399 (£351.70) for an embellished boot.
Drapers speaks to Kokosar about taking inspiration from nature and creating footwear for the modern Cinderella.
What is your background? How did you become interested in fashion? My grandmother was a tailor, and she used to make beautiful miniature dresses for my Barbies and other dolls. That was when I started to be fascinated by fashion, especially by the making of clothes.
How did you start the brand?
I was asked to consult for the Italian footwear brand Cesare Paciotti, to help revamp it for autumn 18. It was then that I started designing and looking at creating something more abstract and different – a footwear line that was bold, yet romantic.
That was how the idea of a glass slipper came about. We launched a very successful capsule collection with Cesare Paciotti, based around the “Cinderella” shoe, wrapped in PVC. We showcased the line in July 2017, during Paris Haute Couture Week. After a very positive response from both press and buyers, my business partner, Marco Calcinaro, and I decided to start our own brand, and Midnight 00 was born.
Now entering its second season [having debuted for spring 19], Midnight 00 still revolves around the idea of wrapping up exuberance. An unexpected, party-proof twist on the fairy-tale shoe, which enables woman to wear it in real life.
How would you describe the Midnight 00 style and ethos?
It’s surprising how the vision of the brand is already recognisable. Our shoes are perceived as being unique for the “wow” effect of their combination of volume, fantasy and romance. They feature the brand’s moon logo jewellery, styling reminiscent of Marie Antoinette, and our signature PVC wrapping for the “modern-day Cinderella” effect.
What were the inspirations for your spring 19 collection?
Midnight 00’s spring 19 palette and materials nod towards childhood dreams. Saturated, super-sweet shades – lilac, peach, rose, peppermint and baby blue – evoke a sense of nostalgia, as do the soft cottons featured across the collection.
These “innocent” shades are juxtaposed with an air of excess. Duchesse satins come in sunset red, black and dawn beige. The PVC casing catches the light and adds to the mood of decadence.
What challenges do you face on a day-to-day basis?
It is a constant learning curve – breaking the rules to make new ones.
How do you keep yourself motivated and creative?
The crucial aspect to staying creative is to constantly keep my mind open and free. Meditation helps a lot with that. For me, it is important that each idea goes directly to the heart without the risk of overthinking.
Is there anyone from the industry you particularly admire?
I admire every person who takes risks and thinks outside of the box. For me Natalie Kingham, fashion buying director at Matchesfashion, is a real mentor. She was the first to believe in and support Midnight 00’s vision. I admire her disruptive approach and her strong intuition.
What is one piece of advice you would give your younger self?
Trust your intuition.
Favourite clothing brand
Favourite places to shop
Vintage places, as I love to dig and find unique gems
Last fashion purchase
A piece of Celine by Phoebe Philo
Post-fashion weeks recovery weekend in Rome
Last book you read
Awareness by Anthony de Mello
Last film you watched
Stylist at MTV Italia
I always dreamt of being a costume designer for a movie about the renaissance era
What would we find you doing at the weekend?
Having a long lunch with my family and friends