Monday saw some of London’s biggest fashion hitters take to catwalks all over London with print and pattern still high on the agenda
Kicking off a packed day was Peter Pilotto, who opened with a strong if not wholly unfamiliar set of prints before expanding into fresh patterns derived from the bulb-studded Japanese light trucks and oriental opera masks. The ensuing mix of print, contrast deep blue velvet panels, cross-body wrap details and voluminous printed cropped padded jackets was a sure-footed step into the future for Pilotto without being a radical leap forward.
After the flying visit ‘out west’ to see Pringle present a restrained yet punk-tinged and detail-rich collection in the beautiful Phillips de Pury venue, the rush was on to traverse the city to get to One New Change to catch a Christopher Kane collection in stark contrast to his spring show.
Opening with a dark, almost sinister run of looks, it was the palette of deep colour that really stood out. Blood red, vivid blue and lush purples gave the collection depth, with flocked florals, animal prints, leather edging and stripes coming together in a dense, adult mix that could end up being a bit marmite.
Erdem was clearly feeling the grown-up mood too, taking his trademark flowers and adding a sense of ‘wrongness’ to the mix with a blend of latex, leather and lace that created a satisfying tension with the designer’s floral foundations. From blooms to Burberry where the elements seen in the men’s collection came through for the women too, as Christopher Bailey embarked on a mash-up of the usually disparate town and country sets. Peplums, punchy padding and pouring rain ensured the A-List audience weren’t disappointed.
After the sophisticated singeing at Giles it was over to McQ Alexander McQueen to close out the day. Showing on the catwalk for the first time, Sarah Burton clearly wanted to make a statement, with crunchy autumnal leaves under foot setting the tone for an opening run of looks that bridged militaria and the signature McQueen decadence.
The show then broke out into more show-stopping looks, culminating in a beautiful nipped-in dressed adorned with a flower shop’s worth of colourful blooms, perhaps a comment on a new beginning for the at times maligned McQ brand.