Separates dominate autumn 11 collections, which are bursting with colour and retro references.
According to Passport creative design director Daniela Kromer-Gouder, key styles for autumn 11 include chunky, oversized knits, knitted boxy jackets and cigarette trousers. Long circle skirts and chinos
are teamed with short, lightweight jumpers, knitted twin sets and sharp-cut blazers. The palette mixes off-white, camel and gold with inky blue, brown and olive, which are in turn accentuated by red, pink and yellow highlights. Soft-to-the-touch tweeds, real fur, leather and lambskin sit alongside boiled and tumbled wool and cashmere. Leather leggings and chiffon dresses are styled together to create a layered look.
Noa Noa is focusing on more casual outerwear for autumn 11 and will be updating the quality and appearance of its basic styles, according to Lea Dam Jensen, the brand’s head of design. The collection is broken down into four main colour stories that will drop into retailers every four weeks to help refresh shopfloors. The stories range from warm berry tones and peppermint green through to taupe and olive green, anchored each month with steel grey, black and white. Fabrications range from wool, viscose and Lurex leading into satin, silk and velvet. Fake fur, alpaca and leather feature on outerwear, and herringbone and tweeds nod to the heritage trend. Prints are key, with vintage florals and brushstroke prints standing out.
The 1960s and 1970s inspire Part Two’s autumn 11 offer, as the brand combines straight lines and boxy shapes on jackets and skirts. Trousers are split into three silhouettes - straight against the leg,
drop-crotch or 1970s-inspired flared jeans. The palette sticks to camel, black and grey with touches of red and cream coming through later in the season. Fabrics range from fine wool and mohair on woollen capes and coats, to coated twill, corduroy and a jersey-cotton mix on separates. New pieces for autumn 11 include printed viscose pants, a trench coat made in heavy-gauge wool and the capes, which come in nylon, casual cotton and soft wool. According to design manager Pernille Skriver, a striped mohair jumper, a jersey-cotton mix trouser and a cropped box jacket are expected to be among Part Two’s best-sellers.
Creative director Karin Veit says Marc Cain’s autumn 11 collection is inspired by both British heritage and the US East Coast, as the American TV drama Mad Men and the film Out of Africa meet and translate into a collection heavily inspired by 1950s silhouettes. Mid-length, full-skirted dresses and loose-fit wool trousers are worn with tight-fitting knitwear. Shoulders are pronounced and rounded off to give a 1950s direction, while sheer blouses with ruffles and bows also plug into the 1950s feminine trend. More relaxed styles include cotton low-rise chinos and long-sleeved jersey tops with contrasting print sleeves. Chocolate and blush pink are key colours and both sit against grey, camel and sand. Prints focus on paisley and animal while the parka, shearling flying jacket and fine-gauge knitwear make up the key pieces.
Three of the key themes underpinning Joules’ autumn 11 collection are performance, the countryside and workwear. The brand has grown its outerwear collection with practical elements such as shower-proof pockets on lightweight jackets. Heritage fabrics feature and vintage linings include quirky duck prints. Elsewhere, rayon twill is used on woven tops and lightweight terry fabrics are used on casualwear. Autumnal plums, grey blues and burnt orange are highlighted, with damson red and yellow featuring in block colours. Womenswear creative director Chloe Ward says the most commercial pieces are heritage jackets, both quilted and in tweed, heavy-knit jumpers and printed silk dresses.
Preppy and equestrian references are the order of the day at Sandwich for autumn 11. Blouses have been a strong performer for the brand and for autumn the category comes in varying lengths, either stopping at the waist or flowing past the hips. Other key pieces chosen by creative director Henriëtte Daniels include jeggings and treggings with pocket details, along with long-line blazers. A new structured, shiny treatment of jersey refreshes the staple fabric for draping purposes. Sand, camel and oatmeal combine with graphite blue, slate green, cornflower and emerald as flowers and abstract dot prints are worked into transitional fabrics. Dresses in crushed netting or crushed voile work with jeans and colourful cable knits. Slim trousers take a jodhpur direction and are styled with tunics and structured cardigans, while summer chinos are updated in jersey.
Chief designer Birgit Göthner says the dress is still important at Betty Barclay for autumn 11, alongside wider-leg trousers and fluted skirts, which are both making a resurgence. Woven and jersey shift dresses come in A-line silhouettes, and skirt silhouettes are diverse, with pencil and fluted shapes. Khaki and olive tones in heritage fabrics such as tweed and herringbone feature, with black and white contrasted against red. Other fabrics include lace, jacquard and fake fur on trims. Göthner highlights feminine jersey dresses and the wide-leg trouser as must-have items for the season.
British heritage is the inspiration for Daks’ autumn 11 collection, which references 1960s illustrations by illustrator Max Hoff from the Daks archive.
The most commercial pieces are those based on the classic trench coat, which comes in a reworked house check for the season. Olive green, black, navy and grey keep the palette dark in Ponte di Roma jersey, wool crêpe and felted wool. Key pieces include pleated skirts, argyle knits and duffle coats.
Delicate prints and biker and equestrian influences feature in the autumn 11 collections at Gerry Weber. The brand pinpoints strong colours such as red and blue as important for the UK market. The narrow, jodhpur-style trouser is a key piece. Patterned knitwear features on long-line cardigans, while fitted knitwear is worn with narrow skirts. Tunic-style T-shirts and blouses that can be worn with leggings are also an essential look. The palette spans rose pink and taupe for the pre-autumn season and continues into dark greys and berry tones for winter. Red is incorporated into leopard prints, while other key prints are equestrian influenced.
Separates make up the bulk of Caractère’s autumn collection. Wide-leg, tailored trousers sit alongside roll-neck knits, knitted layering vests and T-shirts with long-line knitted cardigans. Alternatively, slim-fit trousers in grey and brown are paired with a cropped blazer or belted macs. Other outerwear includes a quilted, short-sleeved jacket with faux-fur trim.
A black sheath dress with ruffle detail and oversized knitwear also stand out.
Long jersey dresses with asymmetric and ruffled hemlines characterise Karen Cole’s autumn 11 offer. Historically, dresses make up the brand’s best-selling category and this season they come with gathered and sectioned pleated fronts referencing 1960s silhouettes, including A-line tunics. Design details on dresses include visible zip pockets. The palette is muted, lending itself to layering, which the brand’s director Karen Cole cites as a key trend for autumn 11. Grey, navy and mauve are complemented by red highlights, while fabrics are dominated by merino wool and printed viscose jersey. Subtle animal prints and distorted florals are the dominant prints.