Sculptured weaves, digital florals and fringing were all fresh on the menu at the London Textile Fair (July 15-16).
Joseph H Clissold
Big and bold were the watchwords at Bradford-based Joseph H Clissold, which offered large scale herringbone, houndstooth and geometric patterns in a bright palette from cherry red to sky blue. Another development is a 100% wool denim, woven to give the twill structure of a cotton denim. Available in shades of navy, olive and maroon, this cloth is designed for suits and jackets.
Minimum order: 70m
Three-dimensional textures were a big draw at Lyon-based Dutel Création, which teamed a blue yarn in a bobble weave with a plain black polyamide base to create a stretch cloth with real surface interest. Other standout fabrics include a bronze Lurex yarn woven in loose paisley shapes onto a black polyester muslin base and an oversized red and pink floral motif with fluffy fringing.
Minimum order: 150m
+33 6 23 11 45 80
Holland & Sherry
For autumn 16, Holland & Sherry opted for all-out luxury with its Fusion collection, a blend of 98% merino, 1% cashmere and 1% silver mink. Characterised by a soft drape and subtle sheen, this collection offers a twist on classic suiting with colour pop detail, such as a striking apple green check on a sage base.
Minimum order: 20cm
020 7437 0404
Creativity was shown to perfection at Malhia Kent. The French mill added a diagonal weave to its graphic patchwork to give a sense of movement and created texture by mixing a red-to-white ombré-effect fancy yarn with a scarlet raffia yarn. A similar silver cloth shone with a golden warp yarn, contrasted against sections of neon bouclé and paper yarn, flecked with metallic Lurex.
Minimum order: 5m
+33 1 41 92 88 88/07789 716811
Magee contrasted thick and thin effects to give its woven cloth a knitted appearance. Oversized plaids returned but with a strong graphic look, perfectly realised in a grey and cream herringbone check cloth, interwoven with sand and black fancy yarns. Known for its bold colours, Magee layered shades and diagonal weaves, while also modernising its authentic Donegal yarns with bouclé textures.
Minimum order: 120m
+353 74 9721100
Bold florals were the focus at Bharat Silks, in particular an eye-catching abstract amber-coloured daisy pattern printed onto 100% silk or sheer silk organza. The Bangalore-based mill also showed off its weaving skills, using a silk and viscose jacquard weave to give the impression of a digitally printed bloom, in shades of orange and yellow with shimmering red Lurex highlights.
Minimum order: 25-50m
+91 80 2227 0642
Turkish textile heavyweight Yünsa threw textured pastel bouclés, graphic houndstooths and digital prints into the autumn 16 melting pot, alongside its commercial wool stretch flannels. The Istanbul-based manufacturer also showcased a smart cotton, polyester and elastane mix from its cotton-focused Yünsa Touch collection. For autumn 16 Yünsa has also added piqué textures and a hopsack weave in 100% cotton.
Minimum order: 400m
0113 259 1812
Lee-Anne Solomons, junior buyer, and Clotilde Blanc, menswear buying manager, at Viyella and Austin Reed
“We like The London Textile Fair as it’s so early in the season, so we can get a heads-up in terms of what will be the next big trend. We mainly like to buy fabrics made in Europe, particularly British or Italian.”
Rob Renton, studio assistant at menswear brand Lou Dalton
“We have a browse through anything that might be interesting for us, although as a luxury menswear brand we buy lots of Italian fabrics as the quality is much better. We just select things we feel are brand-appropriate rather than looking out for trends.”
Ali Alec Abdulrahim, creative director at contemporary menswear brand Mai-Gidah
“This is the main show I like to attend and I’ve found some good trends here, like interesting double-faced fabrics and techno fabrics.”
Onye Anuna, co-founder at menswear brand Gravalot
“I’ve found some really good trends here, such as neoprene and textured, embossed fabrics. Previously, we only made and sourced for the UK as the brand is quite premium, but now we’re looking further out in locations like Portugal, Italy and Turkey.”