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Autumn collections

Plot your seasonal buying strategy with our seven-page guide to essential autumn 10 product, starting with an overview of the key looks from trends analysis website WGSN.

For autumn 10, the classics continue to inspire in men’s outerwear, with Crombie-style overcoats, pea coats, belted raincoats and military greatcoats emerging as strong, traditional favourites. Versatile winter knitwear is increasingly important as cardigans become more coat-like in longer-length double-breasted or belted silhouettes, and sturdy heavy-gauge cable and rib textures. Wider-leg 1940s-style trouser shapes, slouchy double-breasted jackets and casual-feeling jersey suits see relaxed looks carrying over into tailoring. But slimmed-down and shrunken silhouettes will remain important for sharper, contemporary styling. Trans-seasonal layers are a strong driving force for next season and inspire versatile crumpled finishes, subtle transparencies, and simple shapes with contrasting proportions for tops, shirting and outerwear. Tough biker styling and 1950’s weekend looks are key influences that translate into a range of products; from classic jacket and gilet shapes rethought in non-leather materials, to collegiate knits and preppy suiting. Trims take on an ethnic or psychedelic edge that will become important for brands updating their bestsellers.

Beaten-up, timeworn finishes are a key direction for surface as vintage influences continue to inspire a retro approach to contemporary garments; translated in leathers and oil-resin coatings, heavy woollen outerwear fabrics, and bleached treatments. Tactile furs, boiled wools and plush materials further emphasise the importance of natural feeling, yet unruly textures. Colour for the season is suitably functional and autumnal, with utility-inspired shades providing the basis for a palette that mixes strong masculine neutrals and greys, using bold primary brights as a pop contrast. More formal, vintage looks adopt opulent coloured darks, including rich deep reds, painterly purples or browns, and intense velvety blues.

Ben Purdue, associate menswear editor, WGSN

For eveningwear, we see a move on from the hard edged 1980s to a more feminine softening of the hard shoulder Balmain look that has been so dominant on both the high street and the catwalk for the past couple of seasons. There is set to be a tougher, more masculine attitude which will be softened by feminine adornments but still maintain quite a dark edge. Deconstructed silhouettes are combined with pretty and fantastical fabrications, evocative of a Tim Burton fantasy, which will create an unsettling new beauty, almost a Victoriana futuristic feel, and a new sophisticated urban glamour. For a younger womenswear customer, we see the reverse, with a move actually towards the 1980s through a referencing of street brands such as Bodymap. Art influences, bold colours and vibrant prints are fused together to create a casualwear and night time clash as ideas of fun and performance are pivotal to the story. Active-influenced pieces are given a touch of playful eccentricity, while stretch jersey tube dresses, longer length skirts and bold humorous prints are all key factors. The 1980s references become updated in this way, creating fashionable yet wearable statement garments that are confident, all-day wear, one-piece looks with attitude.

Kathryn Kelly, associate womenswear editor, WGSN

Feminised fashions for guys are going to be big news for autumn 10, and will include a return to goth-inspired styling as well as typical rock and metal aesthetics offering an anarchic, rebellious edge. Androgyny will be a buzzword, represented by worn-to-death fabrics, draping and disturbed knits. Animal prints also look set to be a new direction for youthful rock and roll inspired looks for guys. Early 90s body-con and second-skin fabrics continue to be essential silhouettes for girls, while mirrored and or fragmented surfaces are bordering on theatrical and can be attributed to the Lady Gaga effect. We also expect to see a sports-meets-glamour aesthetic, including holographic surfaces and all-over sequins and traditional evening fabrications working into casual wear. In street wear there is a move into multi-ethnic sports fusion looks, particularly following the success of both Nike and Opening Cermony’s recent collaborations with wool specialists Pendelton. And with sci-fi film Tron Legacy, set for release in 2010, we’re sure to see glowing garments, performance wear influences, 3D apparel and sleek silhouettes with a mix of hi- and lo-tech fabrics. Light effects will be key and will include gradient glow prints and even a return to glow-in-the-dark applications.

Laura-Jane Preston, youth editor, WGSN

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