Drapers visited the autumn 19 edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion Week, which was held at the Receinte Modernista de Sant Pau on 4-7 February, to select the best of Spain’s new, emerging and established brands to know.
Designer Umit Benan brought his eponymous menswear brand to Barcelona for the first time this season, marking a return to the catwalk after dropping off the schedule several years ago. Classic pieces, including strong suiting and long tailored outerwear, tapped into the trend for a return to smart, elegant menswear, while Benan’s interesting mixing of casual and sportswear-inspired items, as well as excellent use of tonal colour, made this a stand-out collection.
Pablo Erroz describes his eponymous brand as “seasonless, individualistic and genderless”. Familiar wardrobe staples are the building blocks of the collection, but pieces are elevated thanks to Erroz’s fun design tweaks, offering a contemporary point of difference. Leather adds a luxurious touch to casual pieces, as details on zip-through contrast collar jackets, pockets on shirt-and-shorts sets, or as stripes and panels on denim jeans.
The exaggerated silhouettes, bold use of colour and twisted take on traditional men’s suiting in the latest Man’s Concept collection helped its young designer, Jaime Álvarez, take home the prize for Best Emerging Designer at Barcelona Fashion Week for the third season in a row. Autumn 19’s winning collection was a highlight thanks to its daring colour palette, inspired by a trip to India, while the wide-shouldered double-breasted blazers and jackets were key pieces.
Esau Yori bought a dose of sleek and sexy sophistication to the Barcelona catwalk with his eponymous womenswear brand and its notable autumn 19 collection. The blazer was a key focus, but it came reworked and updated into various guises in a strict monochrome palette lifted by heritage checks.
Sometimes evolutions of the blazer came fitted to the body and cut with sharp, oversized lapels, or with sculptural hips and enlarged shoulders. There were oversized versions that morphed into outerwear, pared-back styles that merged into dresses, corsets and bustiers, and even a style cut in half to become a cropped jacket and matching skirt.
Little Creative Factory
Originally launched as a childrenswear brand, Little Creative Factory designer Cristina Fernández Perez debuted her first full womenswear collection this season, and was joint winner of the 080 National Award for the Best Collection at Barcelona Fashion Week. Evolving many of the brand’s signatures from the childrenswear line, linen and jute fabrics gave an artisanal feel to loosely tailored outerwear, apron-like dresses, full skirts and outerwear layers.