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Berlin Shows: Autumn 15 collections

Drapers visited the German capital’s Panorama, Premium, Seek, Bright, Show & Order and Bread & Butter’s Back to the Street events to find the brands that impress for autumn 15.

Aigle
Premium

French lifestyle brand Aigle is introducing a high-end, velvet-touch microfibre men’s parka with a Gore-Tex lining for autumn 15. Called the Langdale, it wholesales for £230 and comes in three colours - red, blue and green - with contrasting linings, while the detachable hood is available with real, fake or no fur. The buttons are made from hard-wearing corozo, which comes from the seed of a tropical palm and is often used as a substitute for elephant ivory.

 

Aigle AW15

Aigle AW15

Luisa Cerano
Panorama

Outerwear was getting the most attention on Luisa Cerano’s stand, according to the German womenswear brand’s international sales manager Elvira Nass. Oversized cosy shapes are key, such as a soft pink or navy db style with wide lapels in a teddy bear fabric, and a slouchy wrapped blanket coat with waterfall lapels. The average wholesale price across the collection is €90 (£67.50), with a 2.75 mark-up.

 

Luisa Cerano AW15

Luisa Cerano AW15

Avoca Anthology
Show & Order

Irish lifestyle brand Avoca Anthology’s autumn 15 range uses fabrics and prints manufactured at its own mill
in County Wicklow for the first time. Three years in development, the fabrics focus on natural fibre blends, seen at their best on a 100% wool coat in a teal herringbone cloth, wholesaling at €126 (£96). The prints focus on rich florals in muted but powerful colours, which have been chosen to reflect the beauty of the Irish landscape, as seen on a soft drape viscose jersey dress for €50 (£38).

 

Avoca AW15

Avoca AW15

Hauber
Panorama

Buyers were most interested in German womenswear brand Hauber’s latest outerwear offer, with bestsellers including a textured wool egg-shaped sculptural coat (€226/£172) and a fuzzy double-breasted option with an oversized shawl collar (€245/ £187). Its chunky yet lightweight knitwear and silky blouses, available in real silk or silk blends at a lower price, were also popular.

 

Hauber AW15

Hauber AW15

Hype
Bright

British young fashion brand Hype revealed a new direction for autumn 15. Showing its full collection for the first time, printed and patterned jackets and hoodies joined its staple T-shirts and accessories. Quilt-lined parkas, waterproof overcoats and bomber jackets with contrast-print sleeves sit alongside intricately panelled hooded sweatshirts. Wholesale prices start at £7.99 for a T-shirt to £23 for the parka.

 

Hype AW15

Hype AW15

Velour
Seek

Swedish menswear brand Velour is looking to attract UK buyers with its autumn 15 range. After axing its womenswear offer this time last year, the chinos and shirt specialist has invested in heavier fabrics and is championing linen shirts, wholesaling at €64(£48.50), and tailored jackets, which go up to €160 (£121). In a nod to the brand’s chino heritage, Velour has also introduced a workwear-fit chino at €48 (£36).

 

Velour AW15

Velour AW15

Stills
Premium

To combat warmer winters, Dutch womenswear brand Stills has invested in lightweight fabrics and trans-seasonal products for autumn 15, introducing unlined jackets, lighter knits and chiffon dresses. Leather features heavily, with striking pieces including an orange leather boxy minidress. Stills has also jumped on the culottes bandwagon, with cotton and leather versions available. Wholesale trouser prices range from €70 to €90 (£53 to £68), coats are between €184 and €258 (£140 to £196), dresses €90 to €150 (£68 to £114) and knitwear €70 to €111 (£53 to £84).

 

Stills AW15

Stills AW15

Mac
Panorama

Sports luxe is the focus for German trouser specialist Mac, which unveiled samples from its new sportswear brand Athletic by Mac at Panorama. Skinny-fit ankle-skimming leggings in black, grey and denim-effect were shown alongside zip-up hoodies. A small Athletic by Mac selection is available for autumn 15, with a wider launch for spring 16. While UK prices have not been set, they will be slightly lower than the mainline, which averages €40 (£30.60) at wholesale.

 

Mac AW15

Mac AW15

Nudie
Seek

When Swedish denim brand Nudie launched in 2001, its Slim Jim skinny-fit style was seen as extreme. Now it is a perennial bestseller. Continuing the theme, Nudie added Lean Dean for spring 14, a straight slim-fit with a normal waist and rise. For autumn 15, it offers a new choice of washes, including this almost raw denim. Prices are not confirmed, but the retail price will be around £110.

 

Nudie AW15

Nudie AW15


Word from the shows

Richard Barron

Head buyer at Irish occasionwear retailer Pamela Scott “At Panorama, the stands looked great, but there is no newness here in the mainstream market. It’s flat, it’s middle of the road, it’s not exciting. In terms of finding that new brand or new thing everyone is hunting for, it hasn’t been great for me.”

Garth Coverdale

Director of premium indie Pilot in Leicester “Premium was cool. We deal with [German brand] Thom Krom directly there. I love Seek’s new location, it was busy but easy to get around. We always come to Berlin; it’s economically viable compared to Pitti, where you can spend a lot more. Berlin is still relevant.”

Anna-Christina Bechen

Head of international sales, Mac “[Panorama] has been very busy; at points we couldn’t even get on the stand. However, in terms of international buyers, there are fewer than last year, probably because there is no Bread & Butter. A lot of people went to see the trends at Pitti Uomo instead.”

 

Hoss Intropia
Premium

For its 10th year showing at Premium, Spanish womenswear brand Hoss Intropia’s eveningwear showed off its beadwork and embellishment skills, including a grey blue floor-length dress with bronze beading, which wholesales at €180 (£138). The partywear is less fitted, focusing more on feather-light fringing. A bronze-fringe minidress at €130 (£99) and matching fringed bolero for €110 (£84) were exhibited alongside an elegant full-length black-fringe skirt (€140/£107).

 

Hoss AW15

Hoss AW15

Denham
Bread & Butter

Denham unveiled its first range of quilted technical coats and jackets for autumn 15 alongside heavier wool and technical coats. The featherweight items work for the season’s functional look, with highlights including a sporty bomber shape (£58) and a smart, tailored blazer-style version (£98). The brand also announced that Options Distribution will oversee its UK sales.

 

Denham AW15

Denham AW15

Marc Cain Additions
Panorama

Marc Cain launched sub-label Marc Cain Additions, an add-on to the German brand’s mainline and Marc Cain Sports. Existing customers can supplement orders during the season with core products from seven categories: trousers and blouses; coats and jackets; dresses; business; knits; leather and furs; and shoes and bags. Cashmere knits come in several gauges to provide buyers with flexibility in the face of changing weather conditions. The Additions line is priced about 10% to 20% below Marc Cain’s mainline, although prices were not available.

 

Marc Cain AW15

Marc Cain AW15

 

Word from the shows

Ben Lima

International sales manager, Native Youth “Bread & Butter last season was diabolical. We saw 300 buyers; we expected to see up to 700 on the first day. The show was in decline and was so empty last July that we decided to move to Seek. This is the perfect show for us and we love the venue, which is in an up-and-coming area.”

Jürgen Leuthe

Chief executive of German womenswear brand Hauber “The first two days [at Panorama] were brilliant. It was quieter on the last day, but that’s normal. This season it was very much Eastern Europeans visiting, as well as a lot of Germans and Austrians. It would be great to see more people from the UK.”

Angelika Pöser

Agent for Drake’s, Tricker’s, Gloverall and Pantherella “Bread & Butter is an important show. It is international, not only German, and all the big names have heard of it. Panorama is mainstream, but not interesting. It is for big brands but it isn’t ‘fashion’. B&B will be back again.”

 

Criminal Damage x Peanuts
Bright

Young fashion brand Criminal Damage showed its collaboration with comic strip Peanuts, starring Charlie Brown and Snoopy, at Bright. Launching this week exclusively at French store Colette, sales are now
open to all customers for an immediate delivery. This printed and embroidered jacket wholesales at £28.

 

Criminal Damage X Peanuts AW15

Criminal Damage X Peanuts AW15

Eric & Me
Premium

Making its debut at Premium, this women’s ready-to-wear range from lingerie brand Hanro features smart casual separates including silk blouses, tailored joggers and full-length cardigans. Key pieces include terrycloth sweatshirts with zip detailing and leather trims, printed silk minidresses and cotton and cashmere-blend jumpers. Wholesale prices range from £39 for tops to £140 for jackets.

 

Eric and Me AW15

Eric and Me AW15

Soaked in Luxury
Panorama

Danish womenswear brand Soaked in Luxury brought a feminine twist to the masculine check trend by using soft colours such as baby pink on shirts and shirt dresses. A bold leaf print across skirts and dresses proved popular with buyers, as did a marble print on blouses and dresses. Shirts are about €26 (£19.70) wholesale, while dresses are around €35 (£26.50).

 

Soaked in luxury AW15

Soaked in luxury AW15

 

Word from the shows

Jonathan Judah

Owner, Speedway “As a London brand, we felt Show & Order would give us the right platform for our first European show. We are delighted with the response we generated. Buyers were predominantly German and Scandinavian, looking for something new and fresh. Great energy, great location - we would go back.”

Tony Evans

Managing director, Gola Classics “Bread & Butter was a fantastic brand-builder for Gola, but we stayed one season too many. Seek’s execution of a ‘street’ trade show has been a breath of fresh air. The Arena Berlin venue worked well, it was easy to navigate and offered the right brand mix. It was like the original vibe of B&B.”

Rosemary Eribé

Owner, Eribé Knitwear “Show & Order was bright and spacious. British heritage and quality continues to be in demand. Buyers appreciated our craftsmanship and accepted our hand-knitted garment prices. Germany has a real understanding of what things are worth, which is so refreshing.”

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