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3.1 Phillip Lim

Autumn 12

Speaking of ‘modern superheroes’ before the show, it was perhaps unsurprising that Phillip Lim opened with a minimal cape, but it was far from a ‘pants over your tights’ affair, as the theme translated as strong, simple clothing for equally powerful women. A largely high-contrast monochrome palette was pepped up by an electric blue and punchy orange, but overall it was down to contrast panels of different textiles and the occasional pattern to carry interest throughout the show. Deconstructed, stripped back and at times blown-up houndstooth shapes had an almost pixelated quality to them, lending a graphic element to the soft knits and leathers. Construction was clean but intricate, with jackets and coats tailored neatly without being restrictive, which pointed to the collection’s eminent commerciality.

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