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Autumn 12

The house that had such a revival in 2009 thanks to its sharp-shouldered studded blazers has fallen from favour of late, a victim of its own success some would say. However, with designer Olivier Rousteing in his second season, Balmain hit the right notes again with a collection that nodded to the rock ’n’ roll charm that brought it back into the fashion bosom. Rousteing concentrated on a boxy shape that was as wide at the shoulders as the waist, giving a square, oversized style to both smarter silk blazers and quilted leather jackets, while it was the androgynous slim-fit trouser or the sexy mini-length skirt that dominated the bottom half. Elsewhere, decorative embroidered tops were distinctive and covetable, and sure to be a must-have next season whether they’re the real deal or a high street homage.

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