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Best of the rest

Menswear spring 12

Moschino joined the rock ‘n’ rollers for spring 12 with an Elvis-inspired collection. All his looks were there, from neat teddy boy blazers and printed Hawaiian shirts through to his military uniform and flashy stage suits.

There were more 1950s rockers at Costume National Homme, where tonal greys, reds and blacks worked for easy tailoring and retro American sportswear.

Jil Sander offered an awkward fusion of retro and futurism in a dark collection that focused on mismatched proportions, teaming flared high-waisted shorts with boxy suit jackets.

Calvin Klein returned to its iconic all-American sportswear look, with baggy track pants, layered muscle vests and sporty blousons noted alongside simple crew-neck T-shirts, reworked in leather and rubber mesh.

More athletes were spotted at Moncler Gamme Bleu, as a team of Olympic fencers wore padded outerwear and protective vests in the label’s signature red, white and navy.

The look was more modern at Pringle of Scotland, with a lean and minimalist take on sporty that was new for the label.

Modern minimalism continued at Nicole Farhi, where a clean and clinical collection focused on simple unstructured layers and outerwear pieces with a light and functional feel.

By contrast, Salvatore Ferragamo whisked us off to the south of France for a Mediterranean summer of slouchy tailoring and softly structured looks.

It was a colourful European tour at DSquared, with London’s teddy boy blazers, modern Italian tailoring, skimpy Grecian trunks and Scandinavian layered sportswear.

Canali’s more refined global traveller escaped to India, bringing back a raft of exotic silk scarves, traditional embroidery and Eastern colour.

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