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Best of the rest

Spring 12

It was pure simplicity at Dior Homme, where designer Kris Van Assche stripped back all detail for a cleanly tailored, modern look.

The pared-back look continued at Raf Simons, where bright colours worked for minimalist florals, while plaid patterns were cut into kaleidoscopic patchwork effects.

Designer Véronique Nichanian showed laid-back luxury and relaxed resort looks at Hermès, perfect for the jet-set traveller, while Paul Smith offered a highly commercial collection that pushed a casual sophistication.

Smith spliced pieces into colour-blocked sections, with contrasting sleeves or panels bringing an interesting twist.

Spring 12’s sportswear trend visited outer space at Mugler, where varsity jackets, cycling shorts and panelled workout tops were worn by athletes of the future.

Balmain worked its trademark rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic, which played into the rock trend already spotted in Milan - Balmain’s were luxe rockers, however, clothed in python motorcycle vests and alligator leather jackets.

Lightweight fabrications gave transparency to a surprisingly commercial collection at Maison Martin Margiela, where plaid shirts shone through semi-sheer jumpers and blazers.

Androgyny was key at Rick Owens, as a range of A-line dresses and maxi skirts were teamed with elongated sb blazers for a simple, asexual look.

Elsewhere, Yohji Yamamoto channelled Japanese workwear for spring 12, resulting in a simple collection full of volume that was dominated by super-wide leg trousers and culottes.

It was anything goes at Jean Paul Gaultier, where a disjointed collection channelled a mix-and-match look that was, at times, confusing.

Hawaiian-print shirts and shorts stood out but, oddly, were teamed with a tuxedo jacket, bow tie and cummerbund.

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