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Best of the rest

Spring 12

Alberta Ferretti’s tropical-inspired collection ticked several key trends, with 1920s drop-waist flapper-style dresses featuring delicate embroidery and sheer panels, a tribal flavour that worked the handcrafted artisan look, and colourful jungle prints. Hints of the 1920s were also seen in Emporio Armani’s sedately monochrome collection, where long-line blazers, drop-waist dresses and floaty, wire-hemmed pieces stood out. Etro also plundered the decade, as art-deco geometrics and jazz-age fringing were used on decadent dresses. Sportswear emerged as another of the key trends, notably at C’N’C Costume National, where it was given a sophisticated utility twist. The label’s outerwear was particularly strong, including overhead cagoules with leather panels, sleeveless bikers and hooded Harringtons with semi-sheer pockets. Athleticism also came through at MaxMara, in a simplistic mix-and-match collection of streamlined sports pieces. A vivid aqua blouson jacket caught the eye among a palette focusing on black, white and camel. Sportmax added futurism to the sporty feel, with flashes of metallic fabric alongside floral motifs. Elsewhere, gothic gypsy girls at Emilio Pucci wore midriff-bearing peasant tops and full maxi skirts. Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron’s debut at the helm of Gianfranco Ferré remained true to the house’s trademark luxe minimalism as the duo focused on reworking the basic white shirt. Last season’s strictly black, white and grey collection was blown away by rainbow colour and print at Salvatore Ferragamo, as an exotic tropical theme was splashed across dresses. Fun and frivolity ruled at Moschino Cheap and Chic as fruity motifs, daisy florals and rainbow stripes brought a smile, with an embellished strawberry dress leading the way.

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