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Best of the rest

Spring 12

Penniless aristocrats and toppled royals reigned at Vivienne Westwood, decked out in their finest, moth-eaten gowns. Holey knitwear, decadent oversized corsets and ruched sack dresses completed the look in rich brocades. Chloé was a light and bright affair full of billowy pleats and linear stripes, with clean mid-length drop-waist dresses touching on the vintage trends seen elsewhere. Draped and layered forms melted around the body at Mugler with a softness that was contrasted with razor-sharp tailoring and precision peek-a-boo-cutouts. Jean Paul Gaultier’s collection was full of house trademarks. Slouchy pinstripe suits, belted trench coats and an oversized Breton top stood out alongside lingerie-inspired eveningwear. John Galliano also plundered some of its previous classics, albeit without Galliano at the helm, as feminine weightless chiffon dresses and evening gowns sashayed in a palette of black, white and pastels. Typically relaxed luxury came through at Loewe, taking inspiration from the house’s Spanish heritage with geometric tile prints and lizard motifs, while global travellers journeyed out at Hermès, but with the label’s luxury touch. Bold colour blocking was key, from crisp solid white through to sun-baked tans, oranges, blues and deep purples. Haider Ackermann married the masculine and feminine with an exploration of the tailored suit that resulted in slouchy boyish styles alongside deconstructed flowing pieces in glittering jewel tones. Sleek and sophisticated sports looks were served up at Hakaan, a label that is making waves among the fashion cognoscenti. It was a collection of strict black and white with touches of silver and gold with standout mesh bomber jackets and sexy body con dresses. A very different sports look came through at Isabel Marant, where preppy Americana pieces and collegiate sports team styles were noted, but always with that sexy Marant twist. Oversized jumpers and performance jackets were layered over short shorts and tiny mini dresses – even jogging pants were made sexy.

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