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Best of the rest

A dark palette shrouded many of the collections as flesh-revealing sheer panels maintained Milan’s sexed-up reputation.

Italian stalwart Marni presented a blend of 1960s silhouettes mixed with an oriental colour story, with the conservative look coming through as pleated trousers, pencil skirts and boxy oversized outerwear. The reference at Versus was closer to home, announcing Camden as the inspiration behind Versace’s younger line full of leather lacing, tie-dye and medallion prints with glitzy sequined mini dresses and colourful furs. In contrast MaxMara was a slick and precise affair with military inspiration exemplified by wool khaki green overcoats and sailor caps complete with striped sailor flares. Salvatore Ferragamo followed suit as it was also influenced by military uniform, moving into a more romantic gypsy mood with peasant tops and high-waisted pencil skirts. The femininity continued at Etro with peplum waists, ruffled edges and long fishtail dresses, adorned with tattoo-type paisley prints, before a masculine side emerged with wide-leg trousers and tailored coats. Tailoring was also on the agenda at Emilio Pucci, inspired by Vibeke Knudsen, the model in the 1975 shot of YSL’s Le Smoking. Seemingly demure silhouettes such as the rollneck top had sheer panels exposing flesh, as did vinyl pencil skirts with thigh-high splits. Speaking of sexy, Roberto Cavalli’s younger sibling Just Cavalli had all the glamour and sexiness one would expect, and also an ease of wear about it that was a happy surprise, with sophisticated chunky knitwear and multicoloured tweed trousers. Queen of romance Alberta Ferretti stuck to what she does best with sheer and silk dresses, in addition to soft leather coats and panelled dresses. High shine took over at Costume National with a severe no-nonsense collection of high necklines, PVC and double zip-fronted jackets.  Finally, Antonio Marras was picture perfect with an intriguing mix of contrasting textures, fabrics and patterns. The printed layered collars were a particular highlight from a collection that set its own agenda.

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