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Best of the rest

There was no overarching theme to the collections at Paris Fashion Week as most labels mapped out their own trend stories.

Paris is full of names who shun trends and march to their own beat. None sum this up more than Comme des Garçons, whose collection of outlandish oversized outerwear made up for in fun what it lacked in commerciality. Vivienne Westwood Gold Label clashed inspirations in a way that only Westwood can make work. There was drama and eccentricity, but also touches of restraint with the opening look standing out. On the other hand, Rick Owens softened his aesthetic (slightly), with key pieces including cropped jackets with pumped-up sleeves (very on trend), new checkerboard patterns and experiments with colour blocking, albeit still in shades of grey. Bill Gaytten looked to English aristocrats for a John Galliano collection of equestrian-themed glamour – think sexy riding jackets, updated trench coats, smart skirt suits and floaty ruffled dresses. It was masculine versus feminine at Maison Martin Margiela (again), with distorted shapes and fabric play (again), while house classics also reigned at Yohji Yamamoto, as a simple sporty asymmetric dress hung off the body in black with shots of tomato red. There was more volume play at Haider Ackermann, where reed-thin pieces were skilfully contrasted with billowing oversized outerwear for exaggerated silhouettes. A tough edge continued at Jean Paul Gaultier, inspired by the mean streets of Paris. Signature tailoring stood out with large lapels alongside eye-catching coloured furs and pieces sprayed with graffiti. There was more colour at Hussein Chalayan, who worked graphic minimalism into a collection that was simple but still one of his most interesting – one to watch. Another Drapers favourite, Guillaume Henry, had 1960s school girls at Carven that played with religious overtones for a naughty twist. The moulded cap sleeves and curved hips channelled the season’s volume trend, while peekaboo panels provided a revealing twist.

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