Quelle surprise, Calvin was minimal, but creative director Francisco Costa’s skill has always been in making the intricate look simple, something from which those looking to build a brand with a strong identity rather than a label with fleeting success would do well to learn. A largely black collection was dense with texture and fabric interplay, culminating in almost shackle-like brushed steel belts set against leather and wool. The belts served to highlight the large, soft but ordered pleats and folds Costa applied to the fronts of coats, skirts and dresses. Soft-shouldered sweatshirts and sweat dresses were not a surprise, but in peachy orange, Costa’s precision of construction was most evident. Sheer panels in half-circle skirts and knee-length dresses added a frisson, while the glistening sparkles towards the end took the pared-back silhouette from day to night.