Imagine off-duty soldiers with a slouchy attitude and you’d be fairly close to what Kris Van Assche presented for Dior Homme autumn 12. That’s not to say the vibe was in any way moody teenager in well-worn army surplus – this was refined and sleek, and very much modern. Dior’s signature black was given depth sitting alongside the khakis, greys and greens (and even embroidered bird ‘camo’) you’d expect from a military-inspired collection, but everything had a satisfying simplicity that took it away from uniformity. Coats and jackets were stripped of their fiddly details while starchy boxiness was swapped for softer shoulders and longer, less structured coats. The cape popped up, as did linings and shearling on the outside of jackets, while tone-on-tone polo-neck knit, shirt and tie combos worked well in a look capped off by simple baseball headwear.