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Dries Van Noten

Autumn 12

How refreshing it was to see some serious print and lighter colours on the traditionally monochromatic Parisian runways. What strikes you about the latest Dries Van Noten collection is the use of retro graphic patterns across coats and trousers. But look beyond the psychedelic and there were some impeccably made proper clothes. The coats were beautifully cut, as Van Noten played with dimensions, lengths and button placement on classic db styles as trousers were flatteringly and practically slim fitted, whether printed or plain, high-waisted or not. Knitwear saw weightier turtle necks stand out in contrast to crisp white shirting with dramatically pointed collars. The collection could have been described as a huge slam dunk were it not for the slightly dubious shoes – the blandly tan, sometimes croc, sometimes suede, laceless pairs seemingly just too retro.

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