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Giorgio Armani

Autumn 12

The military influence made a return sortie at Giorgio Armani with high-fastening military four-button db jackets accessorised with berets. The show was significantly less formal than others in Milan and showcased a relaxed silhouette that focused on volume, particularly on trousers, which had a 1940s-style wide-leg cut. Shades of grey and blue were interspersed with jet black to create a moody palette. Heritage fabrics came to the fore, with heavy wools and tweeds mixing with corduroy and short-haired fur. Knitwear featured yoke panels and was fitted close to the body, in contrast to the volume seen on trousers. A graphic check wool suit was a highlight, as were the curved-hem sb suits, but in general the collection felt somewhat disconnected, with no clear, all-embracing focus.

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