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Autumn 12

This collection had Riccardo Tisci’s handwriting scrawled all over it – from the gothy black palette to the strong-meets-sexy attitude – but the designer balanced this with something new. Last season’s sporty scuba girls were overtaken by a galloping equestrian look (horse hoof soundtrack and riding boots included), creating a new take on military. Sharp tailoring came as smart riding jackets, frilled with peplums at the back and teamed with silky jodhpurs. Panelled outerwear had contrast fabrics including high-shine leather, pony skin and coloured furs which are sure to be a high street hit, while spaghetti-strapped lingerie-like dresses were trimmed with lace for a gothic Victoriana touch. Red and black dominated the palette but our favourites were the orange and blue combo and caramel brown – a great alternative to the military khaki trend.

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