A love of texture, colour and embellishment united Rodarte, Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta at some of New York fashion week’s most eagerly awaited shows.
Rodarte impressed buyers and fans alike with a collection that could walk straight of the catwalk and into stores effortlessly. Softly structured shoulders looked modern while abstract and distorted floral, aboriginal and human hand prints played a key role. Rust, the season’s big colour, popped nicely against neutral 3D knits with the only off note being the slightly dated shearling biker jackets. That said, the Mulleavy sisters have a sure-fire hit on their hands with this cohesive and coordinated collection.
Marc Jacobs always throws a few surprises into the mix and for autumn 12 Jacobs chose to work texture to the max, with a no holds barred collision of textiles. Models came across as eccentric bag ladies with a touch of 1990s silhouette, as Katie Grand’s styling ensured volume and layering were key. The extravagant hats aside, paisley, houndstooth and playful appliqué gave depth to the collection as aubergine, mustard and forest green held their own against a backdrop of black. Separates were interesting but individually commercial as a result while deep V, off-shoulder cocktail dresses brought an allure to the rich blend of texture, print and contrasting fabrics.
New York’s perennially ladylike and glamorous designer Oscar de la Renta didn’t disappoint with a riot of colour and embellishment. Pretty in pink, blue, teal and paprika red, the collection had a light, 1950s mood highlighted by the neat matching headbands. Jewels glistened, seemingly decadently attached to every surface, lining and trim. While de la Renta’s obligatory brand of red-carpet ready gowns were present it was the 1950s full skirts and 1960s shift dresses, colourful and embellished of course, that were the stand out silhouettes.