The last full day of New York Fashion Week before huge names Ralph and Calvin close things out could have been a bit low-key. Looks like Michael Kors, Victoria Beckham and Jeremy Scott didn’t get the memo.
Project Runway judge Michael Kors was is no mood to feel the economic pinch with a voluminous, luxurious and controversial collection. Fur was employed everywhere, from collar trims to full-on overcoats in a move that angered commentators and activists alike. Fuzzy animals aside, the collection was awash with colour and texture with tartan and cashgora enriching the line. It was at once prim yet flirtatious, the flashes of skin contrasting nicely with the neat twin sets and chemise dress silhouettes.
With her mainline going down a storm, Victoria Beckham’s diffusion range Victoria second showing was a gentle and subtly detailed affair. Still just concentrating on dresses for now, the bright colour presented for spring gave way to tones of charcoal, putty and beige with hints of burnt orange and wine saving the collection from drabness. Simple, relaxed silhouettes mostly just hit the knee – all very flattering – while delicate jacquard and swan prints enlivened minimal, jauntily collared pieces. Another hit methinks.
Despite both VB’s husband and Jeremy Scott both collaborating with Adidas, two different collections you couldn’t have found, as Scott’s trademark boldness and loudness exploded again. Love him or hate him, the designer’s love of brash and bright childishness is a welcome departure from the grey commerciality of the rest of New York’s finest. This time around Bart Simpson, Rainbow Bright and that unicorn off of My Little Pony were all referenced in a riotous mix of cartoonishness and fun. And sometimes that’s what fashion’s all about…