Men in black, all black. Jil Sander went hell for leather in a way that encompassed the entire catwalk, at times verging on costume. For the buyer who can’t quite see leather three-piece suits catching on, creative director Raf Simons delivered some exceptional (leather) outerwear that looked so smooth and high shine it resembled a modern techno fabric. The few exceptions to the leather rule of thumb included crew-neck knits with childlike intarsia prints that relaxed the harshness of the Gestapo officer-style leather coats, while the black was also temporarily broken up with moss green and russet brown. But the overall impression was that Simons had wholeheartedly turned to the dark side for autumn. Look out for the high-shine leather sweatshirts and hooded jackets that will work perfectly with suits for a casual/formal combo update.