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Autumn 10

Fashion followers appreciate Lanvin’s menswear under Lucas Ossendrijver’s direction, and it’s not hard to see why. Commercially it was hit and miss at best in Paris but this was another fascinating show that in many ways summed up the mood in the city. There was virtually no colour - black and grey was interrupted by just a touch of brown and gold - and the key elements were slouchy, casual, androgynous and yet cleverly technical and, in parts, utilitarian. Raw-edge seams, sweater-fabric tailoring, elongated waistbands and padded sweaters all looked fresh.

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