Viktor Smedinge and Phoebe English were joint winners of the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award at the Central Saint Martins MA show.
Scroll elements in construction made for a distinctive, well-crafted collection. Stone contrasted against a black base as Smedinge built on structure with unfurling and rolled parchment on the hips and waists of knee-length dresses and trousers, while shoulders were exaggeratedly rounded.
An entirely black collection was anchored by long strands of artificial hair cascading from models’ waists to the floor. The softness of the hair contrasted well with the rubber strips of plastic that were cut sharply, reminiscent of body armour, as dresses were pulled in at the waist for a feminine silhouette.