Plus other highlights from day four of LFW, including Erdem, Roksanda and Peter Pilotto.
We’ve seen numerous 1970s references already this season, but so far, they’ve tended to err more on the side of Studio 54 glamour than archetypal boho. This season’s Burberry Prorsum show was very much the latter. Entitled ‘Patchwork, Pattern and Prints,’ it featured plenty of all three, along with whimsical mirror embellishment, knitted ponchos and suede fringing on boots, handbags, dresses and capes. Folksy floaty dresses in colourful hankerchief prints had something of Stevie Nicks about them, and look certain to be among the collection’s best-selling pieces.
At Erdem, we saw a collection that at first sight was nothing out of the ordinary for the Canadian designer; elegant evening dresses such as flattering fit and flare shapes with demure knee-height hems, worked in pretty fabrics and lush jewel tones. But on deeper inspection there was a deliberate shabbiness to this season’s chic. Hems were left raw and unravelling, the rich and twinkling brocade fabrics looked like they were almost inside out, striped from old curtains and ripped from the retro furniture that was part of the catwalk’s set. Needle punching was a new technique, spotted on a stand out wool coat that seem to fade into its lacey hem, or the beautiful knitted casual polo neck tops that became dresses with appliqued skirts.
It is often said that Roksanda Ilincic designs with a very specific customer in mind, and this season’s collection would not have disappointed her loyal fanbase of tall, elegant, willowy women. Calf-length skirts and dresses were ladylike and flattering, while almost every look was cinched at the waist with a belt. Colour was a key story here, with burgundy, mustard and cobalt blue all featuring in a rich and rather retro palette.
Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos infused their new collection with a retro space-age feel that reminded us of the 1960s. Citing board games as inspiration, everything came scribbled with bold graphics and colourful curving lines straight from Connect 4, Ludo or Snakes and Ladders. Flowing curved edges scooped around hems of dresses and statement coats, working up sleeves as embellishment and embroidery and mimicking like the layout of old school pinball machines, complete with pinball button embellishments. The duo’s eccentric approach of colour and embellishment was present, but using white as a base allowed the designs to shine without shouting this season.