Shows of note from London Fashion Week.
Looking down the LFW schedule, Richard Nicoll is among the more commercial designers showing in the capital.
While there was certainly a lot to be said for the “autumn season-inspired pieces made summery” inspiration, squint and what you see is a parade of perfectly well-considered separates, from cute sleeveless blouses to simple bomber jackets via neat knee-length skirts. Overlaid sheer sections, iridescent finishes and reworked dogtooth all added interest.
Silhouette was still the focus for design duo Christopher de Vos and Peter Pilotto, taking an hourglass shape and making it angular, exaggerated - almost aggressive. Moving away from the flat digi prints the label made its name with, pattern and decoration were multidimensional, from stood-up sequins to overlaid lace.
House of Holland
Where most of London went with soft tones, Henry Holland cranked them up, employing punchy teals, reds and oranges to match the LA attitude that ran throughout. Stonewashed denim sat against lace, appliqué against snakeskin, but underneath the silhouettes were familiar, which kept the collection relevant and commercial. Simple day dresses, matching gingham trouser-and-shirt combos, fit-and-flare dresses and religious iconography T-shirts all impressed. It was well put together, even though it’s sure to end up a high street copyist’s dream.