Colour, long-line silhouettes, trousers and some stand out outerwear and eveningwear were the trend highlights of yesterday’s London Fashion Week schedule, which marked the return of Temperley London to the capital and which saw big-name showings from Matthew Williamson, Vivienne Westwood Red Label and Richard Nicoll.
Matthew Williamson opened his show with some standout Aztec coats, followed by a series of jackets and dresses decorated with feathers. The collection was shot through with vivid red and an almost neon pink, which were punchiest when they marched down the catwalk as trousers. Although outerwear formed the core of the collection, it’s use of colour and print gave it an almost spring-like vibe. There was nothing dramatic here, but there was a lot of sales potential, exactly what Williamson is good at.
Vivenne Westwood Red Label
At Vivienne Westwood Red Label, held at the Royal Courts of Justice, the themes were clear with pinstripe tailoring, shirting and jackets looking fresh, especially when shot-through with silver. Tartan, which Westwood does so well, came as dresses and coats, while she too chose to decorate a dress with feathers and showed a spectacular macaw-coloured feather coat. The atmosphere was electric.
At Richard Nicoll, bizarrely the models came just halfway up the catwalk, but his collection was one of the best received of the day. His use of colour, including coral with navy and a beautiful teal green was inspired on sheer and shimmering dresses. How wearable the colours are against the skin though remains to be seen.
Temperley London showed a beautifully grown-up collection of eveningwear with sheer embellished blouses tucked in to liquid-like silk satin high-waist trousers and full length see-through dresses decorated with sparkles for modesty. A burnished gold catsuit and asymmetric shoulder nude gown were also notable. The palette was classic, anchored by nude, black and white.
At Nicole Farhi the story was one of masculine tailoring, with cummerband high waist trousers, dresses inspired by the classic white shirt and oversized coats. The show was almost entirely grey and off-white and although true to the Nicole Farhi design handwriting, this wasn’t her best work.
Finally, Topshop’s catwalk for it’s Unique collection was a lesson in showmanship. The theme was dogs meet mice somewhere in early Hollywood, set to a soundtrack of 101 Dalmatians and Elvis’ Hound Dog, which got British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman tapping his feet in the front row.
Dalmatian faux-fur coats, silken pyjama suits and dog print blouses were the order of the day while the models were given Minnie Mouse ears in the form of two buns planted on the top of their heads. Some even had their noses painted black to look like mice.
While there was no sign of Kate Moss, no matter as Topshop boss Sir Philip Green had another of fashion’s most powerful ladies to sit beside in the front row in the form of US Vogue editor Anna Wintour.
It’s worth noting that Wintour, who was perfection in a banana print Prada skirt and navy knit, attended just two shows - Topshop Unique and Nicole Farhi - on Sunday and was nowhere to be seen at the other catwalks.
Green’s pal and former Marks & Spencer boss Sir Stuart Rose also joined his front row, while Alexa Chung and Pixie Geldof got the paps excited.
Today, you can see the following catwalks live:
|09:45||David Koma||BFC Show Space|
|09:45||Holly Fulton||BFC Show Space|
|15:00||Todd Lynn||BFC Show Space|
|18:00||Mark Fast||BFC Show Space|