A rich mix of smart, sartorial silhouettes and high-quality fabrics was joined by garish colour contrasts and new talent on London Fashion Week’s menswear day.
Established menswear designer Oliver Spencer made his LFW debut with an eye-catching collection shown on the day’s finest selection of menswear models. Three-piece check and tweed suits were accomplished and a reflective mood was given an upbeat twist via high-energy items such as a camouflage blazer with leather buttons, and striped ‘meggings’, which offered a new take on the nautical trend.
Felipe Rojas Llanos
Felipe Rojas Llanos delivered a standout collection. The designer was done a favour by the chaotic nature of the other MAN catwalk shows - in contrast, his designs looked basic, calm and elegant. Pops of colour on loose scoop-neck tops contrasted against inky black outerwear and trousers looked sophisticated. Sharing the catwalk was Martine Rose, and her use of fabrication is worth a mention as she used matted textures to great effect on coats.
E Tautz has become something of an LFW darling thanks to label owner Patrick Grant, who has secured its place in the hearts and minds of those who like to see home-grown fabrics on the London catwalks and long to preserve sartorial elegance and the notion of men ‘dressing well’. The label did not disappoint for autumn 11 with a beautiful wool mustard overcoat, elegant suiting and jaunty stripes on fine cashmere jumpers.
Philip Start, co-owner of east London designer indie Start, opted for an elegant and intimate static presentation to showcase his autumn 11 collection for own label Mr Start. There were just a handful of looks, all simple but finished beautifully, including the signature slim block Rivington suit, beautiful flannel and tweed suits anda teal single-breasted jacket with patch pockets.
Knitwear took centre stage in Christopher Shannon’s collection, tapping into a Peruvian theme with coloured banding and fringing on simple jumpers. Perhaps the most sensible thing Shannon did this season was to collaborate with two of the UK’s most exciting brands - Pointer footwear and coat specialist Lavenham, which provided some ingenious quilting on sportswear trousers.
Loose sportswear silhouettes were punctuated with superhero and motorbike graphics as Cassette Playa showcased a white trash-inspired collection complete with flame-printed leathers and metallic Quality Street-wrapper biker jackets.