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Menswear

Spring 12

Overall, London’s menswear shows continued the drive for sportswear highlighted in Milan and Paris. Performance outerwear in particular is one to watch, and many designers looked to the 1960s for tailoring. Oliver Spencer was a great example of the casual workwear look still selling for menswear, with a healthy dose of tailoring and nylon sportswear jackets. Navy and olive green were highlighted by red and orange tones. Aquascutum’s collection, as to be expected, had some great outerwear examples of macs and trenches updated with new finishes and in a fresh palette of powder blue. Christopher Shannon ran with the sports influence, as varsity jackets were updated with patterned sleeves and colour livened nylon jackets. With 1960s tailoring and knitwear influences underpinning the collection, Hardy Amies fused a palette of grey, dusky pink and navy with highlights of turquoise. Short tailored shorts and trousers were worn with cardigans and jumpers under mainly slim, single-breasted jackets. In contrast, James Long was all about the snakeskin and high shine, with metallic finishes on jackets, T-shirts and shorts. Lurex knitwear echoed the grunge-meets-glamour womenswear trend.

JW Anderson continued the colour and print idea with bright silk satin trousers and cutout pattern tops, as well as sleeveless tops with craftwork appliqué. Lou Dalton presented a collection in black, cream, grey and white with interest added through asymmetric zips on the collars of jackets and pockets. The sports influence continued on nylon macs and collarless jackets. Knitwear was a highlight at Todd Lynn’s show, as metal grey wide-weave knits created the effect of sheer panels on asymmetric lines. Topman Design offered Moroccan-inspired printed silks on pyjama-style shorts and trousers; an updated bomber stood out. E Tautz fused sportswear and tailoring influences with a 1960s feel.

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