East met West in Ermenegildo Zegna’s opulent autumn 11 collection, which mixed tactile leather and shearling outerwear with gilded jacquard shirting and shimmering tuxedos. 1970s references dominated the collection from Salvatore Ferragamo, which combined taut, tailored jackets and polo-neck sweaters with bootcut trousers. At Jil Sander, bright, almost neon colours gave life to minimal shapes that were boxy on top and lean below. Engineered quilting was the new leitmotif, bringing a sense of modernity to the collection. The look was more understated at Bottega Veneta, where fine wool suits were updated with subtle patterns or by mixing materials on single items. Vivienne Westwood was more subdued than in previous seasons but her signature eccentric fabric combinations served up an English aristocrat look. By contrast, Albino Deuxième embraced a modern, minimal look in muted colours and tactile fabrications, such as brushed mohair and silk. Outerwear came in the form of unstructured, and often unlined, pea coats or sleeveless coats. A shrunken jacket shape hallmarked the tailoring. Etro layered embroidered T-shirts, mid-gauge
polo-necks and cardigans in a palette dominated by earthy brown, with shots of copper and royal blue. The look was preppy at Moschino, where geek chic tailoring and brights dominated. DSquared stripped away its usual flamboyance in an almost monochrome collection. Legs were tapered, shirts came with puritanical tapered collars and were accessorised with braces and hats. Neil Barrett also served up a pared back look, including dip-dyed, slim-fitting T-shirts, long-line cardigan coats and pieced neoprene and leather ‘meggings’, which were the talking point of the show but which have limited commercial appeal.