Winter can be cold, and MaxMara wasn’t about to let you forget it with its boxy, super-layered and oversized affair.
Umit Benan bowed out at Trussardi in mannish mood yet, contradictorily, injected a sense of femininity.
The gender-bending continued at DSquared where the 1940s tailoring worked even if some of the dresses didn’t, while Emilio Pucci swung into the 1960s with mohair and minis while somehow playing down the house’s famous print.
This eschewing of signatures was also noted at a sober Missoni show as patterns played second fiddle to a languid yet hard-edged aesthetic.
Salvatore Ferragamo was also tough, but softened the strong shapes with fur, alpaca and ponyhair.
Sounds like a recipe for Roberto Cavalli, the Italian stallion presenting a decadent, excessive collection all in the worst possible taste, in the best possible way of course.
The luxuriant vibe continued at Etro, with Veronica Etro citing Renaissance ceilings and Russian ceramics as inspiration, which were then distorted to graphic effect.
Equally graphic was Ports 1961, but instead of prints, a starkly timeless yet oversized sport-tinged look was presented.
Heritage was also on the agenda at Moschino, where tartan triumphed in an odd mix of Highland and high school elements. Grade? Must try harder.
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- Images provided by Catwalking