The key shows from this weekend, including collections from Versace, Jil Sander and Marni.
Though Donatella Versace veered more towards daywear for autumn 15, her collection lacked none of the fun, glamour and sex appeal that the house has become known for. Flippy skater skirts, bomber jackets and logo sweatshirts look set to appeal to a younger customer, but Versace didn’t stop there. A range of party dresses adorned in glittery letters, hashtags and @ symbols quite literally spelt out the label’s intentions to target the digital generation.
With a collection dominated by skinny scarves, glittery sweater vests and high-waisted flares, Bottega Veneta designer Tomas Maier became the latest designer to succumb to this season’s retro trend. A recurring polka-dot print was a clever nod to the 1960s Op art movement, while sharp, structured shoulders added a modern touch to jackets and dresses.
Staying true to Jil Sander’s minimalist tradition, Rodolfo Paglialunga’s second collection for the label was an exercise in elegant restraint. Sticking to a largely muted palette of navy, black and beige, but with flashes of orange, yellow and green, Jil Sander’s tailored coats, slouchy trousers and polo neck knits felt like the perfect foundation to a modern, stylish wardrobe. A squashy chain-strap handbag was a new addition to the brand’s accessories offering, and should prove popular next season.
Amid speculation that autumn 15 will be his final season for Emilio Pucci, Australian designer Peter Dundas sent out a collection that will be seen by many critics as his best since he joined the Italian house in 2008. Once again, the collection had a definite 1970s vibe, with plenty of floaty maxi dresses, high-waisted flares and fringed capes. There was also an astrological thread running throughout, with models wearing long jersey dresses featuring intricate illustrations of their star signs.
Fur has always been a strong point for Marni. Designer Consuelo Castiglione started out working for her husband’s family business, a furrier, before she launched her own label. This season’s collection saw fur used in a number of ingenious ways – as a trim on pockets and sleeves, as cosy stoles and even as a statement-making midi skirt. Marni’s accessories always sell well, and autumn 15’s thick-strapped cross-body bags and clumpy shoes are sure appear in street style snaps next time the fashion week circus rolls around.
Probably the most talked about show of Milan fashion week thus far was Sunday’s Dolce & Gabbana extravaganza. Entitled Viva La Mamma, it celebrated the idea of the mother, with models walking the runway clutching well-dressed babies and toddlers. The theme continued into the collection itself, with ‘ti amo mama’ (I love you mama) scrawled in sequins across dresses and skirts. Elsewhere, many of the Dolce & Gabbana signatures made an appearance: lacy shifts, ladylike tailoring and skintight pencil skirts - all with a typical Italian twist.