Following on from Raf Simons’ stunning final womenswear collection for the Jil Sander house, the collection from the returning woman whose name is above the door was the week’s most hotly anticipated show.
A lesson in purity and cleanness, both Sander signatures, the German’s spring 13 collection was minimal in the extreme. Sander’s skill has always been in the cut, allowing seemingly severe shapes to move and glide, and this collection had that in spades through the hip-focusing pockets and curves and the precisely cut coats. But this felt new and the reductive aesthetic became charming.
In short Some high street retailers will be overjoyed with this collection but the subtlety will be lost on others.