On a day that showcased some of the best that Italian fashion has to offer, Prada, Moschino and Fendi were among the standouts.
After showing an understated and predominantly black menswear collection back in January, many predicted Prada’s autumn 15 womenswear collection would be similarly sombre. But, this is a brand that defies expectations, and on day two of Milan Fashion Week it did just that, with a collection that was all sugary sweet pastels and princess glamour – albeit with an edge. Using a neoprene-like fabric, designer Miuccia Prada crafted ladylike skirt and trouser suits, prim double-breasted coats and dresses that were layered over short-sleeved shirts and long rubbery gloves or embellished with a smattering of gems. There was an air of Grace Kelly in the sixties, but there was also something very futuristic – almost alien – about this season’s Prada girl.
Fur, shearling, quilted coats – we’ve seen all three a number of times already this season, but leave it to Fendi and designer Karl Lagerfeld to take these trends to the next level. Soft mink was used on everything from floor-length coats, to trouser trims, to the brand’s now-famous bag charms. Shearling appeared outside its normal bounds on handbags, bandeau mini dresses and ankle boots. Fendi’s puffy padded jackets were dramatically oversized, and there was even a collection of quilted evening dresses.
After his McDonalds-themed autumn 14 debut and a girly pink Barbie bonanza for spring 15, there has much chatter in recent weeks about what would inspire Jeremy Scott’s latest collection for Moschino. This season, he raided the nineties’ archives and came up with neon quilted jackets, patchwork denim and graffiti prints, along with a line of sporty separates featuring Looney Tunes motifs. Though Scott’s designs will be too directional for the average shopper, his witty pop culture references have - and will continue to - filter down to the high street.