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Milan Menswear

Retro rock looks swaggered down the catwalks as classic tailoring was reworked.

Rock ‘n’ roll icons took centre stage at Milan Men’s Fashion Week as designers plundered the archives for rebellious takes on smart tailoring. There were 1950s rockabilly stars, an ode to Elvis and a Mick Jagger swagger straight from the bohemian 1960s, resulting in a selection of key commercial looks that will filter down to the high street for spring 12.

Milan’s trademark Mediterranean resort styles were also key, while some designers took to the starting blocks ahead of the 2012 London Olympics, confirming a track-and-field sportswear trend at the likes of Calvin Klein, Pringle of Scotland, Moncler Gamme Bleu and Vivienne Westwood.

Smart teddy boys and skinny rockabillies strode down the catwalks at Gucci and Costume National Homme, where the key item, the slim sb blazer, featured 1950s details such as contrast collars and piped pockets. Moschino raided Elvis Presley’s wardrobe, showing hibiscus-print shirts from his Hawaiian surfer period through to his glitzy stage suits. Alexander McQueen continued the rocker look, opening with lean blazers and cropped trousers in clashing checks and stripes perfect for any dapper frontman. The collection moved through to the 1960s with bohemian dandies in mix-and-match three-piece suits for a carefree rock star style.

As ever in Milan, classic Riviera tailoring was high on the agenda but with a softened, unstructured direction and a number of strong db blazers, an item already noted at Pitti Uomo in Florence earlier this month. Neat safari blazers and casual shirt jackets stood out at the likes of Salvatore Ferragamo, Z Zegna and Ports 1961, where quintessential resort styles came in a luxe palette of crisp white and coastal blues. DSquared reworked this look for the youth market, updating the blazer and chino combination in fresh, eye-popping primary colours.

Prada hit a hole in one with its golf-inspired looks and retro sportswear. Print shirts caught the eye, though the patterned trousers may have been a step too far. Print and pattern were strong at the likes of Burberry Prorsum and D&G, while Giorgio Armani’s geometric prints will be a mainstream hit.

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