A round up of the top trends and stories from the catwalks
The Versace show upped the ante on the camouflage trend for autumn 12. It’s been on the radar for the past couple of seasons but it was Versace’s unapologetic use of the print (pictured) that has shifted it into a trend to put money on for autumn 12. Desert camo print was spotted at Vivienne Westwood, and at Missoni the pattern was reworked in floral camo versions. Drapers has seen this trend emerging in both menswear and streetwear for next season, so make sure camo doesn’t slip under your trend radar.
A head start
Baker boy caps, flat caps, bowler hats – Milan covered them all, and in great detail. The finishing touches were of great importance on the catwalks and the hat was widespread. Moschino and Iceberg opted for the formality of the bowler while Dolce & Gabbana had a penchant for Del Boy’s favourite flat cap. The real cementing of the hat came from trendsetter Burberry Prorsum (pictured), which will kick off a wider trend for the baker boy style.
Batman and Superman have one, and every boy wants one at some stage, but capes are perhaps a little too out there for anyone over the age of 10. However, if Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli and Calvin Klein get their way, perhaps not. Whether zipped, buttoned or hooded, this was one of the more unexpected trends from Milan, but it’s unlikely to succeed commercially. Sorry Milan, but we think this is best left to the superheroes.
The lap of luxury
Milan is known for its glitz and glamour, and for autumn 12 menswear this was manifested in a real attention to luxury fabrics and opulent details, worked into classic shapes. The mood was traditional and ‘proper’ dressing for formal occasions. Brocade, velvet and fur collars highlight this air of luxury. While the velvet suits at Burberry Prorsum, Etro and Gucci (pictured) may not work for all, there will be a certain customer wanting to join the gentlemen’s club vibe with a touch of decadence next season.
The classic loafer was a key style for footwear, with the tassel proving an essential detail. Emporio Armani mixed leather and suede uppers while Missoni (pictured) chose leather on wooden soles and introduced colour. Elsewhere, burnished leathers were important on traditional lace-ups at Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo. For the more flamboyant, Jil Sander and Dolce & Gabbana took details and patterns that featured on clothes and transferred them with studding on leather shoes for a more directional look.
A good yarn
As the overall look in Milan was so formal, it was the job of knitwear to loosen up some of the looks. Playful knits came with intarsia patterns or kitsch yokes in primary shades, and graphic knitwear shouted loudly under tailored coats. Chunky knitted T-shirts were layered over long-sleeved jerseys, and waffle patterns seen at Pringle of Scotland (pictured) added a modern aesthetic to traditional knitted sweater shapes. The rollneck returned as the smartest knitwear option, working well under formal double-breasted coats.
Saunders mans up
Jonathan Saunders is having a moment. He was one of the most talked about UK designers last year, was nominated for British Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards (BFC), and has been shortlisted for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2012 for his acclaimed womenswear collection. Saunders has decided to seize the moment and has now made his first foray into menswear for autumn 12. He unveiled his first standalone menswear presentation in Milan to great acclaim, in particular for his signature use of colour and print. The collection (pictured) comprised 22 looks including four-button suits, knits, waffle-knit bombers and slim-leg trousers, which all added up to a thoroughly modern affair. If Saunders keeps this up he’ll have to dust off his tux for menswear awards too.
The inspiration comes from diverse masculine cultures: military, bikers. tribal leaders…#mfw #versace
Great live stream @Burberry. Loved all the velvet. Congrats! #MFW
Marc Jacobs @MarcJacobsIntl
Silvia Fendi back designing the menswear at her family’s house! Highlight so far of the Milan season #MFW pic.twitter.com/bf9cMucw
Pop magazine @thepop
It’s all about a hat for the boys on the #MFW Iceberg catwalk bit.ly/zuhPVS
Vogue.com UK @BritishVogue
Violinist Charlie Siem and Joe Jonas sitting front row at Calvin Klein Collection #mfw
RT @EricWilsonNYT: Etro took the feathers and flight theme all the way to the feather-trimmed shoes #mfw #fashion
New York Times Fashion @nytimesfashion
A/W 12 style rule: if you can wear it, you can wear a roll-neck under it - JM #MFW
GQ magazine @GQRecommends
Now that’s something you don’t see every show. The old “entering a party and pointing at people” walk. This Prada show is ace BTW #MFW
Drapers fashion director Ian Wright @Ian_W_Wright
Camo’s a growing trend. You’ll see a lot more than turn-ups as the season progresses #Milan #mfw instagr.am/p/hBFFg/