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Milan news

What was being talked about in Italy’s fashion capital.

Smoking jackets

DSquared designers Dean and Dan Caten are the kings of themed collections – for spring 12 the label went to Glastonbury, wellies and muddy catwalk included. This season it was a colourful 1960s high school that culminated in elegant dresses fit for prom night. But it wasn’t the hemlines that got the front row tutting (they were surprisingly low for DSquared), rather the good girls gone bad who puffed on DSquared cigarettes as they strutted their stuff. Not a trend we endorse at Drapers.

Bring back the supermodels

Alexander Wang closed his New York show with Gisele Bündchen but Roberto Cavalli went one better in Milan. For a collection full of over-the-top glamour and luxury, who better to end it than the true old-school supermodel, Naomi Campbell. And with Kate Moss spotted at Marc Jacob’s Louis Vuitton shows, chances are we’ll see her in Paris too. Three’s a trend – the supermodels are back!

Golly galosh!

Every season Miuccia Prada does something strange. With her Prada collection she shows us clothes that verge on bad taste, creating things that are so wrong they end up being so right. This season we were drawn to her odd shoes, especially these bizarre chunky platform brogues, giving a classic shape a strange but interesting update. We don’t expect to see many stomping along the high street, but this modern take on androgynous footwear will filter down.

Musical chairs

While Milan’s front row should have been watching the catwalk, many were too busy checking their phones for updates from the week’s game of fashion house musical chairs. Jil Sander creative director Raf Simons (pictured) is out. Jil Sander is back at Jil Sander. Stefano Pilati is out at YSL. But where is Raf going? Where is Stefano going? What about Hedi Slimane? And who’s in at Dior?

TWEET talk

Anna Wintour’s Saturday AM attire includes a floor-length leopard coat. Those of you still in dressing gowns should be ashamed

Karen Dacre, fashion editor, Evening Standard @karendacre

Not a dress in sight at #Prada. The end of the dress???

Jane Bruton, editor-in-chief, Grazia @janeGRAZIA

I want to go to Dean and Dan’s DSquared2 high school where the girls smoke on the catwalk and wear their hair super-bouffed!

Alex Fullerton, fashion director, Stylist magazine @Fullerton_fash

Standing ovation for Raf as he takes last bow – crowd demand he comes bk out … And he does … In tears!! #historicalmoment

Jayne Bibby, deputy catwalks editor, WGSN @jaynebibby

Rich, opulent, romantic and ornate – the @dolcegabbana show was a Sicilian dream

Vogue @BritishVogue

So it’s confirmed by Mrs Prada – next season is one of belts, very posh belts

Simon Chilvers, assistant fashion editor, The Guardian @simonchilvers

A NOTE ON THE LENGTH MILAN FASHION WEEK … It’s long. Too long. Far too long

10 and 10 Men magazine @10and10Men

Liked Maxmara. Particularly liked the music. Propaganda’s Dr Mabusa; doesn’t get more obscurely 80’s than that

Laura Craik, fashion editor, The Times @LauraCraik

Leopard print EVERYWHERE (including carpet) at Just Cavalli earlier. Roberto Cavalli can’t get enough of the spots

Etailer Asos @ASOS

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